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The Dry Wall
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Can't Say S 
Conductor S 
Crazy Train, The S 
Graffiti Patient S 
Grushenka S 
Hear My Train A Comin' S 
Its Right to be Frank S 
JJ Memorial S 
Left Be Frank S 
Little Red Rooster S 
Lowe Route, The S 
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Pocket Full of Trundles S 
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Something Must Break S 
Stop that Terrain S 
Way Hammered S 
Wicked Bender S 

Grushenka 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: 
Season: southeast facing
Page Views: 203
Submitted By: bheller on Jun 25, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Echo Canyon Seasonal Closure: Jan. 1 - second Saturday in April MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Easy, fun, left trending climbing at the start leads straight up through a right facing type feature to a very bouldery crux (V6) around and above the second bolt. Climb straight up through the crux to the horizontal break- up higher you will eventually move left past the rounded arete and into the left facing corner feature. Finish the route by exiting out the right side of the big roof and clipping the chains above. Expect shallow two finger pockets with cranker moves at the crux and a bit of pump management above.

Location 

Sixth route from the left. Start by traversing left from the ground up to the first bolt by the sand-lense huecos.

Protection 

Bolted. Lower from anchors.


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By steve edwards
From: SLC, UT
Sep 15, 2009
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

More aesthetic finish is on Stop That Train because you get its crux, sans rest, after this business of Grushenka is done. Expect this to feel a lot more than one grade harder than the "12b" jug haul on the right.
By bheller
From: SL UT
Apr 24, 2014

I agree the link into STT is great! It does feel a touch harder than the Grushenka standard finish as well (you don't get that softball rest cobble on the link). V6 to a rest, to 4 bolts of sustained 5.12a/b climbing, to the final STT V3 crux, to overhanging jugs. I think 12+ seems right for the link-up. Makes a great fitness route!
By lech
Feb 23, 2016
rating: 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

After the crux some large holds where lose and threatened to come off. Be careful on this one.

I don't think the crux on this one is V6. It felt much easier than Crazy Train.
By bheller
From: SL UT
Feb 23, 2016

Before being chipped by a talentless ass-clown coward, Crazy Train basically equaled a 1 move V6. There used to only really be 1 way to do it. Grushenka's crux allows for multiple different sequences and all are 6-8 moves long. A 1 move V6 is a bit of a rarity and naturally will feel "harder" than 6-8 moves of V6.
By lech
Jun 21, 2016
rating: 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

I don't know about the chipping on crazy train as I climbed it last year for the first time. I pulled big to a slick coble matched hands adjusted feet and went to a jug. I have seen boulders that regularly send above V8 have trouble on crazy train. They also found the way I did the route to be much harder for them than the way they were trying to do it (different bad hold). I think this is common in climbing that we feel our way is the right or only way when different things work for different people. This is what makes outside great. Once we have worked a route one way we often feel the another way is way harder when it is just you have worked your way. You described the chipped holds to be out left I don't believe myself or the others using a different method used these holds. With that all being said Grushenka may have an 8 move problem but I have boulder a lot of 8 move problems and my opinion is that this ticks in at a V4 or V5 depending on the area as ratings vary. The only place I have climbed that I feel would call this V6 is indoors and by that standard the start to crazy train would be V8.
By bheller
From: SL UT
Jun 21, 2016

You do realize that a crux of v4/5 would put this route at 12b/c right? I posted this route over 7 years ago as hard at 12c and later changed it to d after 8 people disagreed.I also do/did the crazy train crux just as you describe.
By lech
Jul 11, 2016
rating: 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

A v4/5 says if the crux came right off the ground and then the route turned into a 5.6 we would have a 5.12b/c. This route thankfully offers more than that. Again my v4/5 grade for the crux is my opinion and that of the guy i climbed it with. We could be doing the rout different or just have different strengths. My intention is to let others know this may be worth a try even if you can't do v6.

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