||Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
|Original: || YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]|
|FA: ||Josh Morris and Kat Uppakham, 7/2001|
|Season: ||Shadey most of the day most of the year|
|Page Views: ||300|
|Submitted By: ||Tony B on Oct 27, 2009|
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|Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. MORE INFO >>>|
A route that will feel harder or easier depending on your jamming skills. The center crux and the top few moves probably earned this one it's name. The bottom is rather uninteresting, but the entire 2/3 of the route above is all good and very fun. The strenuous final clip might be difficult for shorter climbers, so take a long draw for the anchor as well.
Climb up an easy slab (5.8?) part the 3 threads, using a longer sling on the top one, and also on the first of 7 bolts. Climb up past 3 more bolts with increasing difficulty on jams to top out of the jam-cracks on an odd pod in the crack. Pass the first crux there (11b) and continue up to a rest before finishing the pumpy end of the route on big reaches past smaller holds to the jugs. The route is not over until the anchor is clipped.
Climb up and through the arch from Crazy Horse to the far side opening. Climb up past 3 rope threads and onward past 7 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor in the Center of the face. The Anchor is shared with Kee Gai.
3 threads and 7 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor shared with Kee Gai, to the right.
Steep climbing in the Archway