A slappy problem on the BBC boulder under The Turning Point, just to the left of Original Grapple. Start sitting in a nook using 2 crimps then hug your way past the opposing sidepull system eliminating the detached blocks to the right and left.
Stellar, but somewhat contrived.
A pad in the nook, and one over a rock to the left will do ya dandy.
Justin Jaeger with his heel still hooking, is look...
Feb 26, 2003
Just an update: the best flake on the climb was pulled off sometime in January (?), making the line much more difficult for those who blast straight up. It may (or may not) add a single grade for those who use the heel-hook beta. Now, instead of popping to the missing undercling flake, reach further to the hidden jugs/left edge of the boulder.
|By Matt Battaglia|
May 5, 2010
rating: V9 7C
It seems that 2 grades should be posted for this problem: with crack (V9) and without crack (V10/11). With crack, one gets a good foot for the otherwise powerful opening sit sequence and then when the slopers turn foul you bust a hard move left back to safety in the crack. Talking to others who have done/tried this way the consensus seems to be V9ish (with crack). The straight up way, no crack, eliminates the foot and jug at the opening sit sequence and then forces a big move off horrible pinches and crimps to gain the lip and finish. Consensus on this one seems more like V10/11. Anyone feel much different about the grades?