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The Giants Molars
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Grumpy 

YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 55'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Vaino Kodas, Jen Payne November 08
Page Views: 427
Submitted By: DisturbingThePeace on Mar 17, 2009

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Rachael coming into the first crux of ?Grumpy?...
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Description 

Start up some chossy slabby rock to the first bolt. Clip and get established onto the steep wall above. Closely spaced bolts lead to a powerful move off a bad hold and some powerful lockoff's. Pull onto a vertical section and rest for a few more tricky moves guarding the chains. More pumpy and difficult than it seems it should be. New route and lots of loose rock potential, should get better if it ever cleans up, but probably won't get much traffic.

www.vainokodas.com/climbing/nmroutes/giantsmolars.html


Location 

Furthest left route on Giant's Molars, Goes up the left arete outside of the cave.


Protection 

8 Bolts to Chain Anchors



Photos of Grumpy Slideshow Add Photo
Giant's Molars Topo 1
BETA PHOTO: Giant's Molars Topo 1
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By Jason Hundhausen
From: Bozeman, MT
Jun 21, 2009

Aside from the bottom 10 feet, I thought this route was excellent. Not really any loose rock other than that, just a little flakey for the right foot when working the rounded arete. Cruxy getting to and past the 3rd bolt, then again moving past the 6th. Good sequences, especially at the bottom where the tendency is to barndoor off. Balancey, sustained, and pumpy, this was a whole lotta fun!

By BenClimbing
Dec 14, 2009
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

I agree with the previous remark. Very fun after you scramble past the cruddy start.