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Atlantis
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Unsorted Routes:

Grumpy after Eight 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Jim Steagall & Eric Hanson '92'
Season: Sept-June
Page Views: 782
Submitted By: David Arthur Sampson on Jun 20, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (35)
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crux

Description 

The bulging face is probably the crux. Bucket pockets and rails makes this a fun, albeit a bit pumpy climb. A scrambling start to a ledge before the route kicks in.


Location 

W-NW facing, this climb is mostly in the shade; we climbed in mid June. Left of KBG and left of the bolted (5.8) chimney.


Protection 

Six bolts; well protected. Two-shut anchor.



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By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Apr 19, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

FA's - Jim Steagall & Eric Hanson '92

By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Jul 19, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Two bolt ring anchor. No shuts anymore.

By arjunmh
From: Phoenix, AZ
Dec 8, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Some loose hangers. Great rock.

By Wiley Coyote
From: Phoenix, Arizona
Jul 22, 2012

Fun climb, free start with great moves at the top end. Fun climb. Thanks for this route.

By Edmund Kao
Apr 24, 2013

You can use the first two bolts on First Born to protect your start if you don't want to go all the way up to the first bolt scrambling. That would cause some excessive rope drag, so I'd only recommend it if you can arrange for someone to climb First Born and unclip those two bolts once you are protected by a bolt or two on this route.