Good warm up crack climb.
Start with a traverse from the right or a direct start into a shallow dihedral with a thin hands and finger crack to a bolted anchor.
standard rack to 2.5"
|By Andy Laakmann|
From: Bend, OR
Oct 22, 2006
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b
Great fun. Good hands to a thin hands crux. Some #0.75 Camalots work well here. Then continue up to a funky mantle-into-tips-crack move. Conservative rack includes doubles to from thin to #2 Camalot, consider 3 in the #0.5 Camalot size range.
|By Nate Ball|
From: Taipei, TW
Jul 29, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
This route crushed me. Obviously I need to refine my pure crack skills. This is a fine test of how you will do in the Lower Gorge: if you cruise it, you'll have a great time. If you don't, well, that golden tuff is full of bolts.
For gear: a lot of medium nuts, doubles in 0.6-1" (yellow Metolius, purple C4). Nothing bigger than #2.