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Wildfire Wall
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Gruff 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Ken Currens & Paul Landrum 3/75
Page Views: 1,819
Submitted By: Bryson Slothower on Mar 8, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (55)
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Almost to the top

Seasonal Raptor Closure 2012 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Good warm up crack climb.
Start with a traverse from the right or a direct start into a shallow dihedral with a thin hands and finger crack to a bolted anchor.

Location 

Wildfire area

Protection 

standard rack to 2.5"


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By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Oct 22, 2006
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Great fun. Good hands to a thin hands crux. Some #0.75 Camalots work well here. Then continue up to a funky mantle-into-tips-crack move. Conservative rack includes doubles to from thin to #2 Camalot, consider 3 in the #0.5 Camalot size range.
By Nate Ball
Administrator
From: Taipei, TW
Jul 29, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This route crushed me. Obviously I need to refine my pure crack skills. This is a fine test of how you will do in the Lower Gorge: if you cruise it, you'll have a great time. If you don't, well, that golden tuff is full of bolts.

For gear: a lot of medium nuts, doubles in 0.6-1" (yellow Metolius, purple C4). Nothing bigger than #2.
By Matt Farrell
From: Bend, Oregon
Aug 31, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Probably the easiest of the Wildfire/Catwalk 10a's in the Lower Gorge, this climb is a very often climbed warmup classic.

And now, there is a 10m extension on it as well that goes at about 10b! We're referring to it as "Gruff Plus."

From the top of Gruff traverse right 10 feet on very easy moves past some very old petrified birdshit (you don't need to touch any of it, but you will climb near it) to come up under the base of a left-facing handcrack roof. Pull through the roof on handjams and liebacks with tons of bomber gear. Definitely one of the easier roof handcracks you will find, and pretty straightforward considering how steep it is.

A couple handsized pieces (two #2s or a #2 and a #3), and something in the yellow or orange Mastercam range protect the roof perfectly.

Two bolts and chains are there right after you pull the roof. A 60m rope gets you down with a couple meters to spare. It is extremely difficult to clean the gear on rap/lower, so probably best to have a follower clean. You can also easily TR Wildfire and or Crime Wave from the new higher anchors.
By Matt Farrell
From: Bend, Oregon
Aug 31, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

The "Almost to the top" photo shows the extension very well.
By SamandHam
From: Bend, OR
Sep 7, 2014

I did the Gruff Plus extension this past weekend. The ledge scrambling and birdshit detracts from it, but the overhanging moves are really fun and straight forward. I placed a #3 and an overcammed #1 camalot but a #2 and a 0.75 would probably be ideal. I would rate it 5.10a relative to other gorge routes. If your goal is to just warm up for more cracks it's probably not worth your time, but if you like easy overhung climbing or have already done Gruff and want to do something different in that grade range I highly recommend it.