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Last pitch on the 3-pitch Grub Street complex
A long, engaging pitch.... Actually, for us it was two pitches as I ran out of slings so I just built a belay towards the top.
We linked this after climbing Old Style
and Cider Crack
(which gets 10a in Mclanes new book, and I agree). An awesome link up!
Off the belay ledge clip a bolt and then follow good cracks up and right. Eventually, a delicate traverse left leads to a seam (crux? small HB offets), through a small roof, and back to an undercling right.
I clipped the bolt high on the face above the upper undercling and then got confused. I wasn't sure if I should continue up and right in the undercling (and then step left).... or just step left at the bolt. I was also out of slings and getting grumpy about that detail (with 20m of climbing left).
My wise wife suggested building a belay, which I did. Good gear down and right from the bolt, but it was a hanging stance. Not comfy.
Off the "belay" head straight up over the bolt (duh!) and up the corner to the slab above. Two bolts led up the slab, and I thought the slab was pretty spicy considering all the pine needles and ledge below. Honestly, I was glad I didn't have 45m of rope out....
A great pitch...or two :)
Follow the trail to the Malamute (the one that heads around the left side) and it ends right atop the Stooge Wall. Four single rope raps lead down to the belay platform above Old Style. You need to trend climber's left on the third rap.
Standard rack but throw in some small micronuts or HB offsets for the seam.
Belay on the Grub Street complex
Further up the Grub Street comploex
From: Squamish, BC
Jun 10, 2012
A great 3 pitch route (recently cleaned) can be done by linking Old Style/Cider Crack/Grub Street. Access is via rappel from bolts.
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Oct 21, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
The "Grub Street Complex" in Bourdon's book is confusing because it does not actually include this pitch which has always been called Grub Street, with the actual Grub St. route last pitch starting off of Midway ledge (left side), and Rosebud starting at Midway ledge, but on the far right, which is in the complex description.
To add to the confusion the 1st pitch of Grub St. is the thin crack on the right hand ledge above Old Style- next right of Cider crack. It is 11a, maybe 10c, with a couple of 11a moves, but the GS complex describes using Cider crack.