Grub Street 5.10c
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10c [details] |
| FA: | |
| Season: | SW facing, often with a breeze |
| Submitted By: | Andy Laakmann on Aug 2, 2010 |
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Belay on the Grub Street complex
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Access issues at the Lower Malamute. MORE INFO >>>
Much of the Lower Malamute falls into CN Rail's right-of-way. More accurately, the starts of many of the climbs fall into this region. See this link for more details: www.access-society.ca/regions/squamish/areas/lower-malamute
Also, see Kevin McLane's 2006 edition of his Squamish Guidbook to see a image of what is and isn't accessible.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Description A long, engaging pitch.... Actually, for us it was two pitches as I ran out of slings so I just built a belay towards the top.
We linked this after climbing Old Style and Cider Crack (which gets 10a in Mclanes new book, and I agree). An awesome link up!
Off the belay ledge clip a bolt and then follow good cracks up and right. Eventually, a delicate traverse left leads to a seam (crux? small HB offets), through a small roof, and back to an undercling right.
I clipped the bolt high on the face above the upper undercling and then got confused. I wasn't sure if I should continue up and right in the undercling (and then step left).... or just step left at the bolt. I was also out of slings and getting grumpy about that detail (with 20m of climbing left).
My wise wife suggested building a belay, which I did. Good gear down and right from the bolt, but it was a hanging stance. Not comfy.
Off the "belay" head straight up over the bolt (duh!) and up the corner to the slab above. Two bolts led up the slab, and I thought the slab was pretty spicy considering all the pine needles and ledge below. Honestly, I was glad I didn't have 45m of rope out....
A great pitch...or two :)
Location Follow the trail to the Malamute (the one that heads around the left side) and it ends right atop the Stooge Wall. Four single rope raps lead down to the belay platform above Old Style. You need to trend climber's left on the third rap.
Protection Standard rack but throw in some small micronuts or HB offsets for the seam.
Further up the Grub Street comploex
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Last pitch on the 3-pitch Grub Street complex
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By Hans
From: North Vancouver, BC
Jun 10, 2012
| A great 3 pitch route (recently cleaned) can be done by linking Old Style/Cider Crack/Grub Street. Access is via rappel from bolts. |
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