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Groupie Fantasy 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]
FA: John Mallery 1993
Page Views: 1,201
Submitted By: lee hansche on Oct 11, 2007
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pulling on to the slab on Groupie Fantasy... a gre...

Description 

A really cool not-so-Rumneyish route due to the slabby nature of its crux. It's not so much a slab as it is a not too steep face climb.
In short, I'd say be ready to crimp on tiny edges and be prepared for some fancy footwork.

Start on good holds on a steep face for the first few bolts but this part isn't too hard. The first tricky part is pulling on to the slab on an assortment of tiny edges to gain a good foothold where you can catch a little rest. Climb a little higher to get to the next (thank god) bolt and encounter the crux as you move over a small overlap and a little to the left where soon the climbing gets easier and you are on to the top. At the low angle crux think feet rather than hands because what hands you have are so tiny you won't want to pull on them.


Location 

Way left past Waimea and the popular 5.14 section there is a small section of cliff with a few short 5.13s and this route. This one is on the right hand corner of this part of the cliff.


Protection 

5 bolts to two pins where you want your anchor. ignore the pins unless you need a directional and walk right to a chain anchor.



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By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Oct 11, 2007

Rumor is that the first ascentionist deliberately bolted this sparsely. I've never been on it, but I think the "sketchy" label seems to be permanently affixed to this one.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Oct 13, 2007

in north conway this would be consitered well protected (yes i know we arent in conway) but for a rumney route its a little spicy...id say its akin to the spicy feeling you find on Flyin Hawaiian... get on it its cool...

By Mike Thompson
From: Manchester NH
Feb 17, 2008

well you've done it again lee...you've peeked my interest