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Boat Landing Boulders
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Big Jim 
big jim center 
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Capitalization Separates Us From the Animals 
Grounded For Life 
House Arrest 
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Muramasa 
Out Past Curfew 
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Tree Slab 

Grounded For Life 

Hueco: V5 Font: 6C

   
Type:  Boulder, 10'
Consensus:  Hueco: V5- Font: 6C [details]
FA: John Freaney
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,630
Submitted By: sweatpants on Aug 2, 2008
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Katie on a very cold and snowy morning.

Description 

Crux is pulling up to the face and topping it out. Also odd at first to have the rock behind you for the traverse in. Not bad when you get used to it but kinda "inspect her gadget" at hp40 ish. but not as intrusive. cool features and good movement. Starts on obvious jug and goes to the right using the various lip holds and also the crack inside the roof for about 5 feet or so and then up the face


Location 

It is right behind "Out Past Curfew" just walk around to the right.


Protection 

pad or two



Photos of Grounded For Life Slideshow Add Photo
Fun problem.
Fun problem.
word
word
Re-sending a classic, GFL, March 2010.
Re-sending a classic, GFL, March 2010.
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Katie.  Again.  Cold.
Katie. Again. Cold.
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Matt on GFL.  March 2010.
Matt on GFL. March 2010.
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starts on obvious kinda sharp jug towrds left of photo.
BETA PHOTO: starts on obvious kinda sharp jug towrds left of p...
danny going for the crimp. its farther than it looks.
danny going for the crimp. its farther than it loo...
Katie, a couple weeks back on a cold sunday morning.
Katie, a couple weeks back on a cold sunday mornin...
me going into the seam
me going into the seam
The sloper was so chalky that day!  Someone needs to learn restraint.
The sloper was so chalky that day! Someone needs ...
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GFL, great problem. March 2010.
GFL, great problem. March 2010.
Steep.
Steep.
Vinny on flash.
Vinny on flash.
Comments on Grounded For Life Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 21, 2013
By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Aug 2, 2008

I have pics that I'll put up later. cool prob though for sure.

By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Aug 6, 2008
rating: V5 6C

Really fun problem, goes well with an Irish Stout.

By Brian Runnells
Aug 9, 2008
rating: V5 6C

the last sloper before the horn jug was like a faucet today. mysteriously oozing water out of nowhere...next time!

By SteveSchultz
Oct 26, 2008

Might be just a little temperature dependent. Dabbed on the rock on my flash go, going up to the crimp on the upper face. Sent next go from the start. The holds felt fantastic today and conditions were perfect. The last sloper was seeping yesterday, just like what Brian said, but today it was super dry and sticky. Fun problem!!

By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Oct 26, 2008

nice dude! glad you dug it. Did u get on out past curfew around the corner? Its prolly the best climbs in the park for sure.

By SteveSchultz
Oct 27, 2008

Haven't gotten on curfew yet. maybe later this week or weekend. It was an early morning session and it was COLD!! Perfect conditions, really.

By Brooks-C
From: Portland, OR
May 27, 2009
rating: V5 6C

awesome problem. did some video footage. here it is if you are interested.

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By Paul Dieterle
From: Pasadena, CA
Sep 19, 2009

SO CLOSE TO FLASHING IT. AGHHH!!!!

By Hemberger
From: Madison, Wisconsin
Apr 6, 2010
rating: V5- 6C

Loved this thing - Definitely one of my new favorites at the Dodge.

By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Apr 10, 2010

nice. glad you dug it!

By george reynolds
Aug 17, 2010

Does it matter which crimp is used to pull the lip on this guy, I used the one to left of the one that people are using in pictures. The one I used is basically straight up from the first sloper that your heel is on when you hit the big horn.

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Aug 17, 2010
rating: V5 6C

I've done it both ways, seemed pretty similar in difficulty. Pretty sure Sweaty went straight up from the horn on the FA.

By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Aug 18, 2010

i went straight up from the last slopers. There's a picture that shows the hold i used, if that helps.

By george reynolds
Aug 19, 2010

Thats what I thought, it felt like the harder part was squeezing the seam and slopers before the jug. Didn't really feel like hitting the crimp was hard other than how far away it looks when your hanging there.

By Tradoholic
Sep 22, 2011
rating: V5 6C

There's good pinkie jams in the slots underneath, allowed me to make the left hand bumps more smoothly.

By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Oct 11, 2011

I second the pinky jams. They hurt a bit after a few tries, but they really help.

By Tradoholic
Nov 21, 2011
rating: V5 6C

Low gravity day on this one, Vinny flashed off the couch. He took it all the way to the horn but I did the reach for the good incut in the middle to top out. I think going to the horn could be considered an extension and the true V5.

By Matt Haig
From: California
Aug 21, 2013



Kind of wish I'd read the comments and looked at the photos prior to getting on this. It remains a project for a friend so the next time we're out there I plan on sending it as the First Ascensionist did. I can only imagine it's just as satisfying