Crux is pulling up to the face and topping it out. Also odd at first to have the rock behind you for the traverse in. Not bad when you get used to it but kinda "inspect her gadget" at hp40 ish. but not as intrusive. cool features and good movement. Starts on obvious jug and goes to the right using the various lip holds and also the crack inside the roof for about 5 feet or so and then up the face
It is right behind "Out Past Curfew" just walk around to the right.
Might be just a little temperature dependent. Dabbed on the rock on my flash go, going up to the crimp on the upper face. Sent next go from the start. The holds felt fantastic today and conditions were perfect. The last sloper was seeping yesterday, just like what Brian said, but today it was super dry and sticky. Fun problem!!
Does it matter which crimp is used to pull the lip on this guy, I used the one to left of the one that people are using in pictures. The one I used is basically straight up from the first sloper that your heel is on when you hit the big horn.
By Chris treggE Administrator From: Madison, WI Aug 17, 2010 rating: V56C
I've done it both ways, seemed pretty similar in difficulty. Pretty sure Sweaty went straight up from the horn on the FA.
Thats what I thought, it felt like the harder part was squeezing the seam and slopers before the jug. Didn't really feel like hitting the crimp was hard other than how far away it looks when your hanging there.
Low gravity day on this one, Vinny flashed off the couch. He took it all the way to the horn but I did the reach for the good incut in the middle to top out. I think going to the horn could be considered an extension and the true V5.
Kind of wish I'd read the comments and looked at the photos prior to getting on this. It remains a project for a friend so the next time we're out there I plan on sending it as the First Ascensionist did. I can only imagine it's just as satisfying