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Ground Zero 

YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, Chipped, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Rick Leitner, 1998
Page Views: 908
Submitted By: Bryson Slothower on Feb 18, 2002

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Some dude finishing the route.
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Description 

This route is located on the Owl Prow, which is before, and on the left when approaching Surprising Crag. There is a tunnel blasted through the rock, and this route climbs a section of cliff that was blasted and therefore gets a "chipped" classification.

Start on the far right side of the crag, this is the last route on the right side of the tunnel. Sustained climbing with several mid-5.11 moves up overhanging rock leads to an anchor with two bolts....


Protection 

5 bolts to anchor.



Photos of Ground Zero Slideshow Add Photo
Jim Garber making the second crux move on Ground Zero. He's backstepping with his right foot, cranking on a good edge with his right hand, and has to bring his left foot up to the ledge by his left hand.
Jim Garber making the second crux move on Ground Z...
Jim Garber cranking the first crux move on Ground Zero.
Jim Garber cranking the first crux move on Ground ...
Some dude.
Some dude.
Joseph Lascurain on Ground Zero. Photo - Michael Levato.
Joseph Lascurain on Ground Zero. Photo - Michael L...
Comments on Ground Zero Add Comment
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By Anonymous Coward
Apr 30, 2002

This is actually a good climb and to blacklist the route because it is on a dynamite scar seems questionable. If the first accentionists modifies the route, that is one thing. But if someone has the insight to turn a scar on the landscape into somthing good, enjoyed by many, and without further damage, I don't think we should chastise them.

By Bryson Slothower
May 21, 2002

I'm not chastising anyone, that fact remains that it is altered, not in it's natural state and therefore "Chipped" by this sites standards. I think more of the routes at the Sport Park should be on the black list however. At least Owl on the Prowl has no drilled pockets!.....

By Charles Vernon
From: Tucson, AZ
May 21, 2002

Actually, by the site standards, this is definitely not a chipped route. The "fundamental principle", i.e. the quote in bold on the "This is a modified route" page clearly states that it is the intent of the climber who puts up or climbs the route that makes a route "modified".

By Nate Barker
Sep 4, 2002

Weather or not it was actually "chipped", I still enjoyed this climb. I didn't even use the dynamite scar to pull it off. It has a couple of really good moves and a lot of it is crimpy. I don't think that it is rated correctly. This was one of my first 5.11s and I pulled it with relative ease, which surprised me quite a bit. Chipped or not, I'll climb this one again.

By Anonymous Coward
Sep 5, 2002

If this is modified because of a dynamite blast, then why isn't the sphinx crack considered modified.

By Bryson Slothower
Sep 6, 2002

I was wavering between adding this as a chipped route or not and decided that it should be classified as such because it is at the Sport Park and several routes there are modified and I just wated to add my two cents worth that I think that is super lame. If the operators of this site want to change the route to "non-modified", I won't lose any sleep over it. After all compared to some off the routes up there the large dynamite scar seems subtle. My comment above should say "at least Ground Zero has no drilled pockets" I got the names mixed up. Many of the routes at this crag suffer from that awful fate. I do however commend the bolting efforts of many of the FA's at this crag. I was talking with someone recently at Little Eiger who was putting up a new route and he told me: "I'm putting the bolts really close together on this route for people like you. It looks like you could stroll up the route but it also looks like you could use a girlfriend (I was climbing with two dudes). Closely spaced bolts brings more ladies to the crags and thats something we all want to see."In this regard the sport park rules, I just wanted to say chipping SUCKS!!! With bolts so close why bring down the difficulty?By the way, I probably would have added Spinx Crack as a modified route. :)

By Legs Magillicutty
From: Littleton
Aug 17, 2004

Gotta love having to make only 2 moves between each bolt. This was my first 11 lead. Does it still count if I fell/yelled take at every bolt but 2? hehe. Yes, I have no shame. The fact that I led this climbs proves that there is no way that this is 11c! Maybe 10d but not 11c. My name is Tracy Roach and I USED the dyno-scar! Fun climb.

By Peter J. Beyel
From: Glenwood Springs
May 12, 2013
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

A crucial hold broke after the third bolt. Now makes pulling up to the 4th significantly harder. I'd say this line is now 11d/12a.

By Chris Archer
Jul 8, 2013
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

This route has gotten much harder since the crimp on the right wall of the corner disintegrated. This is now the crux.