Ground up Vocabulary
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Gary Schmidt leading. Just got the first piece of ...
Probably a well named route as more than likely you might be using some vocabulary until you reach the safety of the first bolt. From there things can get a bit nebulous. An easier bolted obvious line is to keep trending right up to an easy to spot anchor station shared with Dangling Participles. A second pitch (5.6) then goes 100 ft up to anchor in a cave. There is also a seeming bolt line that goes straight up after the first bolt on pitch one to a second older type bolt. I tried to follow that line but it seemed to peter out and once I was way to high above any kind of pro I ended up downclimbing and traversing right to the other line. Maybe I missed something so have it if you want! Overall a very fun climb though and certainly worth doing if in the area.
Just look for the right angling obvious thin crack about 40 ft right of the big mushroom boulder and consider your future.
This is a mixed route. The first bolt is an intimidating 25 ft of the ground. Some decent pro is possible in the crack leading up to it, but leader should be quite confident leading at the grade.
Gary feeling better after first piece of pro.
Gary way up high at first pitch anchor
By Ron Graham
Feb 23, 2009
The right-trending crack that leads up to the first bolt is very thin, in fragile rock, and tapered in most places. Microcams, small cams, and the smallest sizes of tricams work best in protecting that section of the climb wherever constrictions exist. You can also sling a chicken head or two where the opportunities for other pro are few.