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At the start with two good pieces to protect the c...
The crux comes right away on this one. It's way harder than it looks. Those jugs you are going for don't actually exist. Maybe it is stiff for 5.8, but that's what the plus is for, right? You can get overhead gear for the start anyway (a nut or small cam, or both). Crank into the corner and continue cruising up great featured rock with OK gear. Make sure to place gear when you reach the rotten band under the roof. There is a good #3 or a hex on the lower right side of the band. Make exciting 5.6 moves up into and over the roof. There is not much gear here, but jugs appear. Angle over right to a tree with slings.
This route is on the buttress below the Potato Chip. It starts at a right-facing corner with two thin cracks on the left wall and just downhill from a big tree near the rock.
SR, tree with slings. There is plenty of rope to lower off. There is good gear at the crux, but it is runout on easier terrain....
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 28, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Small cams in the crack left of the corner over the roof are the most necessary pro. Stemming and palm-mantling get you up this climb, but it is awkward and pretty heads-up.