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Charlotte's Web Area
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Charlotte's Web 
Cradlerock Style 
Deep Forest Arete 
Grotesque Old Woman 
Jabberwocky 
Under Rover traverse 
Way Under 
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Grotesque Old Woman 

Hueco: V7+ Font: 7A+

   
Type:  Boulder, 25'
Consensus:  Hueco: V7-8 Font: 7B [details]
FA: Chris Leube
Page Views: 1,346
Submitted By: Sean Denny on Aug 23, 2010
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Jake getting psyched for a big dyno!

Description 

The first move is really hard. Once established on the nice edge at about 10 feet the difficulty eases somewhat. However, at this point the climbing changes from hard pulls on bad edges/pinches to balancy squeezing on mediocre slopers. As a result, I can easily imagine a crimp pulling hardman getting shut down at the top, and I know that a strong compression climber will hike the top but will have heaps of trouble with the bottom (this is me).
In any case, this is an absolutely awesome climb and a must do for any V7+ climber.
Just like Charlotte's Web, after the first 15 feet the climbing goes to no-fall VB.


Location 

Located around to the right of Charlotte's Web on the same boulder. Start in the hand-sized hole for the left and a small crimp for the right. Go up.


Protection 

A pad or two and a spot. Nice flat landing, but the balancy nature of the climb can result in pretty gnarly falls. Banks' guide mentions that this has been the site of several sprained/broken ankles.



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By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Sep 3, 2010
rating: V7+ 7A+

Had a good, skin-abrasive send of this problem today (September 2nd). Note: when it's 103 in Santa Ynez, the Brickyard slopers feel like hell.

By Bob Banks
Mar 11, 2011

FA: Chris Leube

By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Aug 19, 2011
rating: V7+ 7A+

I've noticed the bottom can be done a number of different ways. I typically start with my left hand on the side-pull hueco and my right on a small but pretty obvious crimp. From there, you can do a powerful huck to a sloper up and right, or do a more static pull to a pocket-like crimp straight above you. Both methods top out the same, and both make you grunt. Wicked good problem.

By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Oct 4, 2011
rating: V7+ 7A+

By the way, the old sit-start to this problem reportedly went at V10. Then something broke. I don't know what—I wasn't near burly enough at the time to even think about touching the sit-start. However, my buddy Ian and I were feeling psyched the other evening, and after about a half-hour of work, we worked out a good sequence from the sit. Did we send? No way. Will we send eventually? Maybe, maybe not. But SOMEONE will.

Definitely goes, definitely awesome. Anyone?

By Trevor V.
From: Santa Barbara, Ca
Nov 10, 2011
rating: V8- 7B

Was out on it today. Good weather for sending, but no spotter had me worried about topping out. I did the move to the crimp as it was most obvious to me then backed off the top out. Next time?

By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Feb 4, 2012
rating: V7+ 7A+

As I worked the sit-start today, a cranker from SLO walked up, asked politely for the beta, then, after about 5 or 6 tries, sent. He says V10.

It goes.

By Tim King
Jun 30, 2012
rating: V7+ 7A+

Ah, finally got this bad boy today with a nice cool evening breeze. Out to the slope, and then up through the grainy top-out. Feels real hard all the times you miss, but then when it finally connects it doesn't feel too bad. Good stuff!

By Jake Sahl
Apr 25, 2013

Traversing in on crimps from the left is a fun way to do this thing without the dyno. It still has great movement and you still get the balancy, slopey top-out. V6?

Honing in on the real deal...