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Ursula 

Groovy 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Jim McCarthy, Bob & Jane Culp, 1963
Page Views: 2,114
Submitted By: Mike fenice on May 31, 2006
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (48)
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Description 

I think the old guide book put this at 5.8 and the new one has it at 5.8+. If you have trouble hand jamming and don't know how to smear, it will feel more like 5.9.

P1: Follow the left-arching finger crack past a roof and up to a belay ledge. There is an anchor just before the roof but don't stop there, it's cheating! Finish by turning the corner and heading up to another set of fixed anchor. 5.8+, 70'.


Location 

40' right of Bonnie's Roof at a left-facing corner capped by a roof.


Protection 

Standard rack.



Photos of Groovy Slideshow Add Photo
Jeff nearing the top of Groovy
Jeff nearing the top of Groovy
Into the 10a variation.
Into the 10a variation.
Comments on Groovy Add Comment
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By JSH
Administrator
Sep 2, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

I have no trouble hand jamming or with corners, but I still count Groovy as 5.9, as does at least one guidebook. The initial corner is quite straightforward, and is not the crux. Moving up into the traverse, and getting across it, is steep (and awkward) climbing on a few not-so-great feet, until you've moved past the sling salad. These moves add up to 5.9.

Carefully inspect the sling salad rap station above P1: there are sharp edges in the constriction that's slung, and over the years I've seen it saw through a few slings. Hopefully the Preserve will add bolts here eventually, as this is an objectively more dangerous rap station than many others.

By Michael G
Sep 9, 2008

Hand jamming isn't necessary...I just lay-backed across the overhang to the outside corner. Clip the sling nest and swing over!

By Michael John Gray
From: Queensbury, NY
Mar 8, 2009
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Laybacking is the way to go... jamming it is tough. Finishing on the Second pitch of Ursula makes it a well rounded nice classic climb.

By Anthony Baraff
From: Paris, France
Sep 28, 2009

Every time I do this route my #3 finds a home and I'm pretty certain that I could get a #4 to go in the traverse crack with little trouble.

There's a really good 10a variation with decent gear that goes straight through the roof. You get all of the crux moves of Groovy plus another 10 or so feet of interesting climbing after the Groovy crux instead of the 5.3 finish after the traverse. Just be sure to appropriately sling your gear under the roof to avoid rope drag.

By Larry S
Aug 2, 2010

I'd say it's at least a 9. Felt harder than both ant's line and directissima. Pro is very good though. You can definitely sew it up if you find you're in too deep.

By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Aug 24, 2010

Did the 10 variation; once you finish the traverse, head straight up over the roof (go right and then up). It's juggy and fun.

By analogical
Oct 11, 2010

I would agree with the 5.8 rating, and it's not even hard 5.8. Rating Groovy, which has one solid 5.8 handjam move, as harder than Double Crack, say, or Modern Times, seems strange to me.

Groovy Direct, as my friends have come to call the "10a variation," seems more like 9+ at the most, but I'm not going to argue as vehemently. I'm curious, though; have the people calling it 10a led it? I have. It's G, by the way, if you find the right placement.

By doligo
Nov 22, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Agree with Analogical - one of the easier .8s in the Gunks. You can stem the whole thing up and over, even the traverse if you have flexible hips.

By Chris Duca
Administrator
From: Havertown, PA
Mar 21, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

This is a great route for the aspiring 5.8 leader. Gear is plentiful and stemming the corner, eases the grade back quite a bit.