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King on the Throne - West
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Awakening, The 
Double Cracks 
Groovy Crack 

Groovy Crack 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: unknown
Season: Morning Shade
Page Views: 727
Submitted By: Tony B on May 2, 2007
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Better than it looks with excellent jams at the cr...

Description 

A good route that is harder than it looks. Climb up a brief thinner move to access the good holds and a crack and start up to the juggy concave area, where a stemming crux with off-angle holds guards an easier and secure jamcrack above. Finish on great jams then move right to clip the bolts-and-chain anchor.


Location 

This climb is on the south-end of the west face of the 'King on the Throne' formation. It is a juggy and winding crack just left of the standard rap station.


Protection 

One set of cams to 3"



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By Courtney Pace
Aug 16, 2011

The gear on this route is not plentiful. I placed a #3(yellow) C3 a few feet below the crack that was my first piece of solid gear. So make sure you have something to fit that pod. The climbing is easy, the gear is a little scary.