Groovin' 5.8+
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 150 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8+ [details] |
| FA: | Ellison, Noble '82 |
| Submitted By: | Peter Gram on Sep 18, 2004 |
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Steve is Groovin'
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Description Groovin' is on the far right side of the Egg. Look for small roof that angles up and right, turning into a right facing dihedral. This route isn't very obvious, but can be picked out by looking for the fixed pins.
Start up an expando flake, then quickly reach the roof. Two pins and an alien placement lead to a good bolt. Thin moves above the bolt are protected by 2 more pins, stoppers, and small cams. Continue up through kindof crappy rock to an anchor made up of a small tree and a piton.
One rope rap (60m rope) to get back down. This route is pretty unique (beginning is really good), but the rock is ricey and there is quite a bit of vegetation.
Protection 4 pins, 1 bolt, small gear
BETA PHOTO: 1) Leggo My Eggo 2) Variety Delight 3) Just Say ...
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Groovin'
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By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Mar 17, 2005
| I love this route and it deserves at least 2 stars!
Stay right near the top for better rock and climbing (same finish as Go Van Gogh).
These routes could really use a chain anchor. The higher tree anchor is dieing! I have an unused hand-drill - anyone want to mentor me on how to put in a good anchor there? |
By Nathan Fisher
May 14, 2005
rating: 5.8
| I thought I counted 5 pitons (I could definitely be wrong). A very fun route, with very fun moves. I agree with Stan, and stayed right at the end where a #2 Camalot helped protect the exit move. Take measures to reduce rope drag. After doing both pitches of Variety Delight, this route was a fun relaxing finish to the day. |
By Timmy Fearn
May 9, 2006
rating: 5.8+
| I definitely counted 5 pins as well... a good fun one. The exposure due to the drop off to the right was better than coffee. |
By Ben Folsom
Jun 15, 2009
rating: 5.8+ PG13
| Wow!! totally classic. Unique and interesting, great climb for a moderate in LCC. |
By steve santora
Jul 29, 2009
| Great route I like it every time I do it. thanks Les....I linked it up to Rodeo Girls in Bondage. Definately the best way to do it. makes a great outing try it. Steve |
By df1mk
Jun 23, 2010
| Fun varied route. There is a two bolt anchor at the top. |
By cslice
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Sep 27, 2011
| This route is really cool and interesting. Probably would be worth 3 stars if not for some of the poor rock quality in spots. I found this stout for a 5-8+ lead...even old school rating. I thought Satan's Corner was easier, but then again maybe I'm just not great at slab footwork. |
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