|Ocean Lookout/ Upper megunticook cliffs
A few yards left is a steep, wide crack with a large spike of rock wedged in it at the start. Hand and fist jamming leads to chimneying past chockstones. From an alcove, climb a short slab on the right (crux, 2 bolts), turn the roof, and follow a fist crack up the headwall to a fixed anchor. Rappel with one rope. Take a full rack, including extra gear to 4”. (80')
The obvious wide fist crack on the left side of the cliff
A full rack, up to a 4". Two bolts protect the slab crux. An anchor is at the top
|By Matt Desenberg|
From: North Berwick, ME
Sep 13, 2009
Fun climb, pretty dirty right now but I'm guessing that is par for the course based on the amount of traffic. Anyway, 5.9 felt pretty on for this one. Not sure about the plus, the slab isn't bad at all, imo. The trickiest part is getting around from under the roof. You are close to a bolt, but a blue camalot protects this move nicely (if you can place it...)
This is also a fun route to experiment with OW technique.
Sep 14, 2009
It felt solid for the grade, with the crux on the slab. Real fun and varied climb!