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Ocean Lookout/ Upper megunticook cliffs
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Groovey Grubworm 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Townsend and Dorcas Miller, July 1995.
Page Views: 464
Submitted By: Matty Zane on Apr 9, 2009

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Groovy

Description 

A few yards left is a steep, wide crack with a large spike of rock wedged in it at the start. Hand and fist jamming leads to chimneying past chockstones. From an alcove, climb a short slab on the right (crux, 2 bolts), turn the roof, and follow a fist crack up the headwall to a fixed anchor. Rappel with one rope. Take a full rack, including extra gear to 4. (80')

Location 

The obvious wide fist crack on the left side of the cliff

Protection 

A full rack, up to a 4". Two bolts protect the slab crux. An anchor is at the top


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By Matt Desenberg
From: North Berwick, ME
Sep 13, 2009

Fun climb, pretty dirty right now but I'm guessing that is par for the course based on the amount of traffic. Anyway, 5.9 felt pretty on for this one. Not sure about the plus, the slab isn't bad at all, imo. The trickiest part is getting around from under the roof. You are close to a bolt, but a blue camalot protects this move nicely (if you can place it...)

This is also a fun route to experiment with OW technique.
By epoch
From: Maine
Sep 14, 2009

It felt solid for the grade, with the crux on the slab. Real fun and varied climb!