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Laurel Knob
Routes Sorted
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'Shimer Down T 
A Second Way (Variation Finish to Seconds) T,S 
Aloha slab T 
Annie Get Your Guns T 
Arrested Development  T 
Before the Settlers Arrive T 
Better late than never T 
Biopsy T 
Black Flag T 
Buried Treasure T 
Canyons of Laurel T 
Central Pillar Direct Finish T,S 
Central Pillar of Laurel T 
Clippidy Doodah... S 
Clowns to the Left of me T 
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Cruising with the Top Down T 
Defective Sonar T 
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Dillard Arete T 
Don't call me surely T 
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Fathom T 
Fathom Direct T 
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Finger Lickin' Good T 
Friction Addiction T 
Frolictown T 
Fruit of the Poisonous Tree T,S 
Funky Chicken, The T 
Get it while it's hot T 
Gibbet , The T 
Girl friend route T 
Groover (Gaskin Finish) T 
Groover Variation (Fischesser Finish) T 
Groovin' in the name of the Laurel T 
Have and Not Need T,S 
High & Dry T,S 
Hone Ranger T 
Hypocrite's Corner T 
Jokers to the right  T 
Keel Hauled T 
Laurel's Girdle T 
Laurel's Snake Dike T 
Legendary "F" Bomb, The T 
Manatee Fluid T 
Manatee Left T 
Mechanical Bull T,S 
Mirage  T 
Mirage Direct Finish T 
Monster Groove Direct Start T,S 
Monster Groove Reject Start T 
Mutiny T 
Nana's Bananas T 
Nanna Gets Her Groove On T,S 
O.K. Corral T,S 
Oasis T 
Old Times' Sake T 
Permission Granite T 
Pirate's Cove T 
Pirate's cove Alt start T 
Pirate's Cove direct finish T 
Puff The Magic Dragon T 
Quantum Mechanic's Arete T,S 
Rejected Radar T 
Rock Eating Tree T 
Route Of The Living Dead T 
Seconds T 
Squirrely man T 
Steep in the Teacups of Laurel T,S 
Stegg, Roy Fathom ALT. T 
Stellar Sonar T 
Stemming Laurel T 
Stingray T 
Two Rattlers in Your Face T 
Unfathomable T 
Use It Express T 
Use It Or Luge It T,S 
Use it or Luge it Direct Start T 
Walkin' Da Plank T 
Wild Turkeys T 
Wild Wild West  T,S 
Wormhole T 

Groover (Gaskin Finish) 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 6 pitches, 900', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Jeep and Julia Gaskin - July 1980
Season: Spring, fall
Page Views: 19,701
Submitted By: saxfiend on Apr 24, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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Up high on groover

Description 

Groover is one of Laurel Knob's signature moderate routes. It has the distinction of being established in a single-day first ascent by noted NC climber Jeep Gaskin and his wife Julia -- on their honeymoon! For much of its length, Groover follows a nice arching crack system with great protection; toward the top, it uses the carved water grooves that are a hallmark of Laurel Knob. Don't let the 5.8 rating or the fact that there's "only" six pitches fool you; this is a long and committing climb with serious runouts on the upper pitches. Start early and bring plenty of water.

For anyone wanting to experience North Carolina climbing at its finest, Groover is not to be missed.

P1 - starting at a large pine tree, climb a right-facing crack system up and slightly left to a ledge with another pine tree and belay (NOTE: this pine is the only place to bail without leaving gear until you reach the end of the fifth pitch). 5.7+, 190'
P2 - Move right from the tree and continue up a left-facing crack that will merge into the arching crack system that is Groover's main feature. Follow this for another full rope length and find a comfortable spot to build a gear anchor and belay. 5.7, 190'
P3 - Continue up the arching crack to a steep bulge; tiptoe over the bulge to the right and onto a sloping platform that makes a comfortable belay station. 5.7, 180'
P4 - Prepare yourself mentally for climbing high above your protection. From the belay, climb high into the crack and place a medium-to-large cam, then downclimb until you can move out right on a bulge with quartz dikes for footing. Continue traversing right about 30' to reach the second of two deep water grooves, then look for gear before heading up (there's supposed to be a distinctive quartz hole in the groove somewhere). Head up the groove for about 100' or so (you may find a gear placement along the way), until you reach some spacious solution pockets and a welcome crack to build an anchor. 5.8, 160'
NOTE: If you were doing the Fischesser variation, you'd continue up the arching crack from here.
P5 - Move left about 15' to the obvious continuing groove; climb this steeper groove past three bolts and one good pro placement in a finger pocket. Finish at a narrow tree ledge with a bolt just below. 5.8+, 100'
P6 - Continue up on easier ground and arc out right to an obvious tree island for a full rope length; after bringing up your second, continue to the right end of the tree island and look for a bolted rap station (the top of P6 on the Groover Fischesser finish). 5.6, 200'

Descent 

The double-rope rappel off Groover is complex enough to get a separate description. Missing some rap stations is easy and can have serious consequences; knot your rope ends.

Rap 1 - from the anchors at the tree island, rap down and pendulum way left to the bolted anchors for P7 of Forbidden Fruit (FF). This is also the P5 belay for the Groover Fischesser finish. 140'
Rap 2 - rap down the groove to the P6 anchors for FF. 170'
Rap 3 - continue down the groove to the P5 anchors for FF. 130'
Rap 4 - continue down FF past the P4 belay bolts (no rap rings) and past a prominent roof. Not far below these bolts and off to the left are the P3 anchors for FF that will be your next rap station. 180'
Rap 5 - trend left as you rap down to find the FF P2 anchors a good ways out to the left of the plumb line; be careful not to pendulum back right. 120'
Rap 6 - finish the descent with a rap straight to the ground. 140'

Location 

Groover starts at the far left end of the face. Follow the cliff trail to a point where you'll curve around right and back up above the trail at a large pine tree. From here, you'll know you're in the right place if you can see the tree ledge at the top of the first pitch (much higher than it looks).

Protection 

Bring a full rack of active and passive pro; cams up to 4" are useful/necessary. Double ropes are a real asset on the traversing pitches.


Photos of Groover (Gaskin Finish) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up P2 of Groover on Laurel Knob. The route...
BETA PHOTO: Looking up P2 of Groover on Laurel Knob. The route...
Rock Climbing Photo: Johanna finishing up the last pitch of Groover, La...
Johanna finishing up the last pitch of Groover, La...
Rock Climbing Photo: Denmark follows on P2 of Groover.
Denmark follows on P2 of Groover.
Rock Climbing Photo: Groover, P3  Slabtacular!
Groover, P3 Slabtacular!
Rock Climbing Photo: A 40' lead fall on P5, and all Denmark has to show...
A 40' lead fall on P5, and all Denmark has to show...
Rock Climbing Photo: The water groove on P5 is often wet, adding to the...
The water groove on P5 is often wet, adding to the...
Rock Climbing Photo: About half way up
About half way up

Comments on Groover (Gaskin Finish) Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 10, 2016
By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Decatur, GA
Mar 25, 2008
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

Climbing Groover was a truly memorable adventure. The grooves on P4 and P5 were both running with water, making the runouts even spicier. Leading P4, I was very happy to find a perfect horizontal yellow Alien placement roughly 70' above my last gear. On P5, my partner took about a 40-footer off the wet groove; happily, he wasn't hurt and finished the lead in good style.
By EverydayExplorer
Jun 9, 2009

I full on epic'd on this route. The anchors up top are hard to find and I wrote a novel of a trip report with all the stuff I learned about this route. Check it out Groover Trip Report
By Will Eccleston
Apr 3, 2010

Did it today with Matt Walsh. Good lord my sphincter was tight on Pitch 5. John, I almost took the same ride that Denmark took! Straddling a water groove that's running with water really messes with your head. Great day! There was some bomber gear in the orange Metolius range in a small horizontal just right of the water groove high on pitch 5. Probably a few moves past the pocket spoken of in the description.
By Jeff Mekolites
From: HOTlanta, GA
Jun 4, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

4 bolts as of 6/4/2011 on pitch 5.
By sanz
From: Raleigh, NC
Jun 21, 2012

Do you really climb 100 feet above pro on pitch 4? If so, how in the world does this not have a R rating?
By jeep gaskin
Sep 9, 2012

i'm really happy groover is being climbed and enjoyed. also glad it has been the scene of several epics. laurel is an excellent place for epic development. if climbing war bonnet or temple peak or the diamond is one of your goals, long, hard days in the relatively benign world of wnc is perfect. i applaud all of you.
By SteveBSU
From: Muncie, IN
Oct 31, 2012

Can you rap off with 1 60m or do you have to do double ropes to get down?
By UncleBen
From: Steele, AL
Nov 1, 2012

Double ropes mandatory....Mandatory on virtually all routes at LK.
By freddie hutch
Oct 6, 2015

How does the fear factor on Groover compare to the OR at Whitesides? We're planning our first trip to LK, planning to do Seconds, but Groover sounds soooo good...but I'm scared. The first pitch of the OR doesn't bother me much though.
By UncleBen
From: Steele, AL
Oct 9, 2015

Freddie....if the direct P1 of the OR is no problem, you will not have any issue on the "runout" section of Groover....especially with the new bolts.
By Gustav "Goose" Fredrikson
From: Jacksonville, FL
Mar 7, 2016

Is there a walk-off? Looking at Google Maps it seems there could be.
By Jonathan Dull
From: Boone, NC
Mar 7, 2016

Per the CCC Laurel Knob Climbing Management Plan, "5.1. All routes must be rappelled to descend; there is no walk-off. The top portion of Laurel Knob is owned by another property owner. Please help us be a good neighbor by rappelling all routes." carolinaclimbers.org/sites/def...

That should answer your question. Be ready to rap.
By JohnnyRemein
From: Asheville
Mar 10, 2016
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Great climb, comfortable and very well protected up until the last two pitches. I thought P4 wasn't nearly as bad as what I've read here. Granted, there were two bolts which may be newer. I believe I also took a higher route than is mentioned in the beta here. Belay started high in the crack already, I down climbed 25ft and then crossed over the bulge on quartz feet, continued up on the left side of the first water groove to a gear placement (.5 C4? basically parallel to our belay) then crossed the first water groove on 5.7 slab feet to a red C3 placement halfway between the two grooves. Then up the second groove past the two bolts. This all caused a slight bit of rope drag towards the top, but by that point the 5.8's all behind you. I think this way made the traverse safer for the second as well (he was able to cross the initial bulge just left of the first gear placement).

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