|By Jason Haas|
From: Broomfield, CO
Feb 18, 2012
Has anyone actually climbed this before? My partner and I decided to climb all the roof routes here today and I could figure out three. 1) Cozy Overhang, which is about 5 feet to the right of The Owl corner/roof. 2) There is a dike/groove going out the very center of the roof. There is an old fixed pin in the back of the roof and the ceiling is choss, but there's a distinct "U" cut out at the lip where the dike runs up and left. Is this Groove? 3) Pussycat is on the far right side, basically where the roof ends and the rock goes into the chimneyish crack next to East of the Sun. This route cuts hard left along a seam and around the corner to a left-angling crack/ramp. 1 and 3 matched their descriptions well, including their grade. 2 seemed like in the right location, but definitely not the right grade.
We got on all three today and the center one is ridiculous. It's a massive, basketball-style dyno from the slab to the lip where a sloper jug awaits, then a funky mantle. A fall from the lip, at least how I mantled it, is asking for a head-first digger onto the slab below. Super "R" if not worse if you botch that. Hell, even the jump is "R". Mark is a mega-strong beast, but he's not exceptionally tall and so the dyno seems unrealistic (especially at the 10d grade) for his route Groove. Also, the roof is chossy with exfolitating flakes and no real holds, so there's no option of getting horizontal on it (especially for the grade). So the question is, where's the route Groove go? Rossiter's description places it exactly here, but I can't imagine that it's correct. I could easily have seen him do either Cozy Overhang or Pussycat and called it 5.10, and then the location of the route got lost in translation in the guidebooks. Any insight would be greatly appreciated, thanks.