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Groove Tube 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 180'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Mark Maffe 1995 First Pitch, Ray Bernard? 2nd Pitch
Season: year round
Page Views: 5,759
Submitted By: Adam on Dec 24, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (60)
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The "famous" Groove Tube on Fire Wall.
Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a very cool climb!!!

On the first pitch the crux might be near the ground. The 2nd pitch is seldom done but has a few harder spots.

Mark Maffe discovered the first pitch of Groove Tube in 1995. It was buried beneath jungle growth and he cleaned it, added protection and gave the rating 5.10 (even though it was a very soft rating - he was worried that no one would climb it if he rated it lower, especially given the already soft ratings in that area - and he really wanted people to climb it since it's such a fun climb).
FA info in King's original guidebook was a misprint.


Location 

Once you've pulled yourself up the fixed ropes: Walk to the right on the very eroded hill. You can't miss this one, the TUBE!!!


Protection 

Draws. I seem to remember something about 2 ropes, but now I'm not sure about that. 2nd pitch might be a long one.



Photos of Groove Tube Slideshow Add Photo
View from the top of Groove Tube
View from the top of Groove Tube
Fun, slightly awkward start!
Fun, slightly awkward start!
Getting in the Groove
Getting in the Groove
Groove Tube, Tonsai
Groove Tube, Tonsai
Loved this route!
Loved this route!
Greg Martinez on Groove Tube
Greg Martinez on Groove Tube
Comments on Groove Tube Add Comment
Show which comments
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Mar 3, 2007

This is a really fun and unique climb! A couple of things: it's really probably only 5.8, and it gets a big line! both times we walked by fire wall, there were at least 3 parties waiting to get on this thing! It's good, but I wouldn't say it's worth waiting more than 10 minutes for. Lots of hype on this one...

By reboot
From: Westminster, CO
Jun 25, 2007

The second pitch is fairly short and arches to the left. It goes ~5.10. Be warned that a 60m will NOT get you (rappel) down to the ground. There is a set of bolts 100 ft above ground you can rap off of that's somewhat below the 2nd pitch, but please back up the rap as you might swing trying to reach it.

By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Oct 19, 2007

I believe the first pitch has as many as 11 slings on it. To me, it's a classic and worth waiting for and I thought it was unique. Then again......we didn't have to wait.

~Susan

By Livia
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jan 18, 2008
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I think some of the variability in ratings for this climb has to do with the polished rock combined with the heat and humidity. On a cool(ish), dry(ish) day, this would feel 5.8. On a hot, humid (read--normal) day, this feels like climbing on butter (damp hands combined with chalk) spread on glass and feels more low 5.10. That said, I had a blast. For those that really enjoy climbing unique features on a non-contrived route, this is your climb.