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Groove Connection 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 3 pitches, 380'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Mike Reardon, Jeff Heveron, Leigha Dickens 2012
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,072
Submitted By: Mike Reardon on Jul 28, 2012
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Groove Connection from the top of the 1st pitch
2013 Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Unlike its fun face climbing partner to the right (North by Northwest), this route navigates different water grooves over mostly gear protected terrain. There are a few runouts but they are over 5.6 or easier terrain.
P1: 5.4 200 ft: Take the easy slab into an obvious bowl 40 feet up and 40 feet left of NBNW trending up and left. Gear belay just above the small tree, about 30 feet above and left the NBNW 2nd pitch,
P2: 5.7 70 ft: Take the obvious and fun watergroove past a bolt and tcu's to a large belay ledge with a double bolted anchor. You can put a #1 cam in a slot above the watergroove to protect the 2nd's swing
P3: 5.8 (5.6R) 120 ft: From the belay, make the 'groove connection' to the left water groove passing some tcu's and a bolt. It is a bit run out to the next bolt but great groovin. Continue past gear and some lichen to a 2 bolt belay


Location 

40 ft left of NBNW


Protection 

Up to a #2, TCU's are great, 3 protection bolts total. 2 ropes are needed to get down
For rappel: Rap to P2 anchors, then to the P1 anchors of NBNW.



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By Mark O'Neal
From: Nicholson, GA
Oct 15, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

I couldn't find the #1 placement on P2. It must be higher up out of the natural line to the anchors.