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Grommet 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Drew Bedford, Sept. '08
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,313
Submitted By: drewford on Sep 10, 2008
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BETA PHOTO: 1) Grommet 2) Total Ramon 3) Scratchin' for the Lo...

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Description 

This little shredder climbs patina and pinches past four bolts to a two bolt belay. Not that the climbing goes that way, but the left arete and gully are off route. Props and thanks to Kelley Bethea for being a big part of this route's creation.


Location 

Starts just left/uphill of Total Ramon.


Protection 

All bolts



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By steve edwards
From: SLC, UT
Sep 16, 2008

It's also the approach to Steel Reserve.

By drewford
From: Wasatch Back, UT
Sep 17, 2008

Well for historical clarity, "Steel Reserve" is actually pitch 2 of Total Ramon. So that would be the true start. Not that you can't start wherever you want. I did notice that at some point there was some rock fall at the start of the upper pitch, so coming in from Total Ramon may now be less appealing.

By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Jun 29, 2009
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c

You could totally sling a shrub instead of clipping that 4th bolt!!

By Mary Ellen Man
From: Midvale, UT
Aug 15, 2011

This was a fun climb I started out left on the arette then stepped right to the first bolt then climbed up through to the third bolt and traversed left to the arette doing it this way was about 5.10 and fun.

By Mark Lewis
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Jul 19, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

Fun route! I found the crux to be between the 3rd & 4th bolts. There is a sharp right hand crimp and a higher left hand sloper you need to move off to gain a solid right hand sidepull. Use a longer runner on the 4th bolt to lessen some rope drag.

If top roping the route take note of the edge a little lower than the anchors where the rope will drag across. To help lessen this be sure to clip a directional or two to minimize the rope rubbing across this point.

Bolts and anchors are all in excellent shape!

By Mark Lewis
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Jul 19, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

There are 4-bolts to a chain anchor.