Grits with Eggs Over-Easy
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BETA PHOTO: Yellow dotted line shows route. Photo by LP.
On Oct. 30, 2012, I climbed from the low point of the Second Pew up the slab, with no pro until I could sling a small (but not tiny) tree. I moved rightish to a left-facing flake system that diagonals left. I gingerly liebacked and stemmed up this flake system, being careful with fragile rock (5.8+). At the top of the lieback, I threw a double-length sling behind a tiny shrub/tree (the most solid pro since the tree), then climbed up and leftish, past some loose blocks. I reached an alcove above a big bush and slung a couple of blocks for anchorage. Above lay the lichened crack of Is this Your Crack?
On the second pitch, Leo traversed left to a short chimney and followed it straight up to a nice dihedral/groove. Excellent face climbing was found on the face right of the groove. At its top, you may follow A Way to the Top
, or traverse straight right (5.7) to a two bolt anchor atop Face with Bolt
. Pro opportunities were merely occasional. The second pitch could be approached by other ways.
Start at the low point of the right side of the Second Pew.
SR through #3 Camalot. Leo placed a funky #3 1/2 Camalot on the p.2 traverse. A # 8, 9 or 10 Hex MAY work there. Or maybe a funky #4 C4.
Dec 14, 2012
I see y'all are getting with the southern theme.
By Leo Paik
From: Westminster, Colorado
Dec 16, 2012
Shucks, it was George's call.