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North Horror Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Dog In The Ass S 
Glumpies T 
Grape Nuts, Why Not? T 
Grit Roof T 
House Of The Homeless S 
Lippo Suction S 
Quivering Lips T 
Zarmog the Dragon Man T 
Unsorted Routes:

Grit Roof 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Tobin Sorenson, Rick Accomazzo, & Jim Wilson, December 1977
Page Views: 2,846
Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 1, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
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Me with the "wrap of death" rope managem...


Start in a right-facing corner to approach the roof crack, plug in a piece or two under the roof and turn the lip where the crack quickly widens (this is where the big cam will come in handy). A large flake broke off several years ago and has bumped the grade up from it's previous rating (5.10c).

A recommended route for the area that merits three stars out of five.


Looking from the parking area you will see two obvious rock formations that both culminate in a tower of sorts. This route climbs the right formation via the obvious roof crack easily seen from afar. It lies across from Dog Day Afternoon which is on the left formation.


pro to 3" (include a 4"-5" piece for the roof), bolted anchor/rap (3/8") at the top

Photos of Grit Roof Slideshow Add Photo
Sonja on the Grit Roof
Sonja on the Grit Roof
Pulling the grit roof
Pulling the grit roof
Straight on view of Grit Roof from South Horror Ro...
Straight on view of Grit Roof from South Horror Ro...
Battle wounds from Grit Roof
Battle wounds from Grit Roof
Grit Roof
Grit Roof
"Grit Roof". Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: "Grit Roof". Photo by Blitzo.
Grit Roof
Grit Roof
John Dubrawski on Grit Roof
John Dubrawski on Grit Roof
Up and over Grit Roof.  Photo by Ryan.  Nov 2013.
Up and over Grit Roof. Photo by Ryan. Nov 2013.
Sean on Grit Roof
Sean on Grit Roof
Rapping off after a successful ascent of "Gri...
Rapping off after a successful ascent of "Gri...

Comments on Grit Roof Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 12, 2015
By Murf
Jul 9, 2002

Flake above the overhang is gone, definately harder than .10c, some say .11a now.
By Randy
Jan 14, 2003
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

This route has definitely gotten harder since the large "pancake" shaped flake under the roof was pulled off.
By Dynomight510
Aug 19, 2003
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Below the roof takes 3/4-1.5" cams. It's perfect hands at the lip of the roof and widens to offwidth from there. The 4.5 or 5 camalot has a home after your pull around the lip but it's is still hard at this point. With the flake gone, I would rate it harder than 5.10c.
By Steven Powers
Aug 25, 2003

i like this climb but i dont think it deserves as many stars as illusion dweller...... and i agree with randy 11a is a much fairer grade.
By Adam D
From: Los Osos, CA
Oct 23, 2007

I'd agree on 11a. I did it with just a new style #4 above the roof (placed from the first fist jam just above the lip) and felt fine...the wider sections get much easier quickly. Fun jams.
By Kevin DB
Nov 26, 2013
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Awesome route, but it's probably the easiest 5.11 in J-Tree.
By toddgordon
From: Joshua Tree, California
Nov 26, 2013

Vogel's guidebook has it at 5.10c.......that's what I've always called it......
Nov 27, 2013

Vogel's '92 guide has it as .10c, his new one has it at .11a, get with the times Todd. I remember when the big hold at the lip first broke off, all the south O.C. hardpersons were rumoring it .11c.
By toddgordon
From: Joshua Tree, California
Nov 27, 2013

OK..I'll give it 5.10d.....that big hold at the lip was a foothold;..not a handhold;......so when it broke off, it made the climb easier;......didn't sucker people into grabbing it anymore....(so now that it is in fact, easier;...it's probably 5.10b?.....)..
By Jon Hartmann
From: Ojai, CA
Nov 23, 2014

Just climbed this yesterday. Used (2) #3 camalots for the easy approach crack, and was able to place a .75 camalot extended under the roof and a #1 camalot right at the turn of the roof lip all from a solid stance. I turned the lip, popped in a #4, (definitely could have put in a #5 instead) and blasted to the top. As a 5'8" guy with thick hands this climb was absolutely 5.11a for me. I had to let my feet completely cut into space off of really thin jams to high step to the foothold on the face. I've done plenty of 5.10+ and 5.11's in jtree and this one would have been 5.10 if I could have reached the higher bomber jams or if I had smaller hands to make the lower jams good. Having the option or neither, I'm going to rate it a stout 5.11a for myself. With a grain of salt. Don't get suckered into trying to use the face hold on the right. It's a sucker hold, all hand jams will get er done.
By dnaiscool
Apr 12, 2015

In December of 1973 I climbed at JT with Mike Jaffe, and we did the immediate second ascent of "Glumpies" (but we were calling it "Pope's Crack" since he'd just led the FA.) When we topped out we hung around to give encouragement to Tobin Sorenson, et al, who were working "The Grit Roof". I'm not quite sure where he fit in on the line up, but Mike Jaffe definitely followed the crack that day.

I am quite sure we witnessed the FA of this little beast, so you might want to reconsider that FA info.
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