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North Horror Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Dog In The Ass S 
Glumpies T 
Grape Nuts, Why Not? T 
Grit Roof T 
House Of The Homeless S 
Lippo Suction S 
Quivering Lips T 
Zarmog the Dragon Man T 
Unsorted Routes:

Grit Roof 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Tobin Sorenson, Rick Accomazzo, & Jim Wilson, December 1977
Page Views: 2,492
Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 1, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
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Sonja on the Grit Roof

Description 

Start in a right-facing corner to approach the roof crack, plug in a piece or two under the roof and turn the lip where the crack quickly widens (this is where the big cam will come in handy). A large flake broke off several years ago and has bumped the grade up from it's previous rating (5.10c).

A recommended route for the area that merits three stars out of five.

Location 

Looking from the parking area you will see two obvious rock formations that both culminate in a tower of sorts. This route climbs the right formation via the obvious roof crack easily seen from afar. It lies across from Dog Day Afternoon which is on the left formation.

Protection 

pro to 3" (include a 4"-5" piece for the roof), bolted anchor/rap (3/8") at the top


Photos of Grit Roof Slideshow Add Photo
Pulling the grit roof
Pulling the grit roof
Me with the "wrap of death" rope managem...
Me with the "wrap of death" rope managem...
Straight on view of Grit Roof from South Horror Ro...
Straight on view of Grit Roof from South Horror Ro...
Battle wounds from Grit Roof
Battle wounds from Grit Roof
Grit Roof
Grit Roof
"Grit Roof". Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: "Grit Roof". Photo by Blitzo.
Grit Roof
Grit Roof
John Dubrawski on Grit Roof
John Dubrawski on Grit Roof
Up and over Grit Roof.  Photo by Ryan.  Nov 2013.
Up and over Grit Roof. Photo by Ryan. Nov 2013.
Sean on Grit Roof
Sean on Grit Roof
Rapping off after a successful ascent of "Gri...
Rapping off after a successful ascent of "Gri...

Comments on Grit Roof Add Comment
Show which comments
By Murf
Jul 9, 2002

Flake above the overhang is gone, definately harder than .10c, some say .11a now.
By Randy
Jan 14, 2003
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

This route has definitely gotten harder since the large "pancake" shaped flake under the roof was pulled off.
By Dynomight510
Aug 19, 2003
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Below the roof takes 3/4-1.5" cams. It's perfect hands at the lip of the roof and widens to offwidth from there. The 4.5 or 5 camalot has a home after your pull around the lip but it's is still hard at this point. With the flake gone, I would rate it harder than 5.10c.
By Steven Powers
Aug 25, 2003

i like this climb but i dont think it deserves as many stars as illusion dweller...... and i agree with randy 11a is a much fairer grade.
By Adam D
From: Los Osos, CA
Oct 23, 2007

I'd agree on 11a. I did it with just a new style #4 above the roof (placed from the first fist jam just above the lip) and felt fine...the wider sections get much easier quickly. Fun jams.
By Kevin DB
Nov 26, 2013
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Awesome route, but it's probably the easiest 5.11 in J-Tree.
By toddgordon
From: Joshua Tree, California
Nov 26, 2013

Vogel's guidebook has it at 5.10c.......that's what I've always called it......
By RTM
Nov 27, 2013

Vogel's '92 guide has it as .10c, his new one has it at .11a, get with the times Todd. I remember when the big hold at the lip first broke off, all the south O.C. hardpersons were rumoring it .11c.
By toddgordon
From: Joshua Tree, California
Nov 27, 2013

OK..I'll give it 5.10d.....that big hold at the lip was a foothold;..not a handhold;......so when it broke off, it made the climb easier;......didn't sucker people into grabbing it anymore....(so now that it is in fact, easier;...it's probably 5.10b?.....)..