Pitch 1. This pitch is the business. Climb the flare that ends with a hardish (.9) move to a sloping ledge, enter the chimney with some difficulty, move right from the chimney to a thin hand to fingers corner. This exit goes at 10b, but what really gets you is the physical climbing below. Belay at the tree. Pitch 2. Climb some 50 feet to a ledge where you can see a hand crack about 15 feet to the right. Pitch 3 is one of the best 5.9 hand cracks in the Valley. A true jewel.
Start about 30 or so feet to the right of Midterm.
Rappel the route or walk off (rather tricky).
Standard Valley rack with emphasis on thin hands.
|By Tavis Ricksecker|
From: Bishop, ca
Sep 30, 2008
I found the flare to be the crux of the whole route. The third pitch is amazing perfect hands.
|By Fat Dad|
From: Los Angeles, CA
Jan 26, 2009
OK, I didn't think the flare was the crux, definitely the first pitch; but it sure the heck isn't 5.8 hands like the Meyers guide says. It was too wide for me to fist jam and awkward as heck. I ended up doing a stemmy, liebacky finessy thing to swim past it.
From: Oakland, CA
Jan 5, 2010
Can be done in two pitches - either belay after the traverse at the base of the hero handcrack on a good stance, or gun for the top from the bolted anchor at the end of p1. Double ropes will help.
|By Will S|
From: Joshua Tree
May 23, 2010
First pitch is currently a museum of stuck gear, maybe 4 or 5 pieces total. A hacksaw/chisel mission would really serve it well.
From: San Jose
Dec 13, 2010
Just did all Gripper as one ~270 ft pitch . My new 80m rope have same exact length as a route.
But on rappel you still need 2 ropes -80m come 5 feet short off the bolts on top of pitch 1
|By Phil Esra|
Jan 17, 2011
when the supertopo says one 3-3.5" for pro, best to interpret that as one 3" and one 3.5". A BD #3 and #4, or two #3s, is fine, but having only one piece in that size isn't ideal. Also, when the topo says that the p2 belay takes medium cams "and bush," i think they must be making a joke. It's a sad, bushy little bush. Plenty of other options though--small cams, medium cams, a big nut.
Really cool route. P1 is pretty damn hard all the way through, but not enduro; P3 is rad.
|By Mark P Thomas|
May 4, 2013
Start really felt more like sustained wide 5.9 to me compared to other climbs in the Valley. Chimney is not that hard and pulling the roof wasn't as tricky as expected. What got me was the thin flaring crack after the roof 'crux'. At least for me, I couldn't stay secure or get rests, so that part was really tough for me. We linked P2-3 as a very nice long pitch. Definitely don't stop after the first pitch!