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The Vortex
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Gripcom 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Bill Boyle
Page Views: 160
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Sep 9, 2012

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Gripped on Gripcom.

The draws to the rig...

Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Big, fun handholds for the first few bolts, followed by smaller holds and trickier movement up high.

The exit moves to the chains are strenuous and exciting.

Unfortunately the very poor rock quality detracts substantially from the route.

Location 

The left-most line at The Vortex.

Protection 

9 bolts, chain anchors.

The anchors are shared with the line to the right, Greener Over There (.11c).


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By Perin Blanchard
Administrator
From: Orem, UT
Sep 9, 2012

As I climbed this line the handholds were covered in dust and grit and I kept knocking off bits with my feet, causing my belayer not a little consternation. The rock quality was atrocious, even by my admittedly lax standards.

At the fifth bolt I looked up and could only see a bolt 12-15 feet ahead. I looked in front of me at the rusty head of a bolt of unknown length and its rusty old SMC hanger, seated in rock of dubious quality. I contemplated a possible 20+ foot fall...and chickened out.

After taking and regaining my composure somewhat, I continued up (and discovered an intermediate bolt not visible from below). Nevertheless, I'd lost my enthusiasm and went more-or-less bolt-to-bolt to the top.

It had started raining, and I decided this was a route I never wanted to get on again.

Oddly, though, as soon as I was on the ground I started thinking about getting on it again. I probably will at some point.

I think it must be a psychological disorder.
By KipHenrie
From: centerville, utah
Sep 9, 2012

I gotta say take great caution on belaying on this route. I had 3 rocks hit my helmet that would have taken me to the hospital, plus one hit my back. There isn't a lot of room to maneuver for rock fall. Also a tree blocks the view of the climber as he gets higher. The tree might slow down rock fall but u won't see it coming. Not worth it.
By Darren Knezek
Sep 10, 2012
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Gripcom puts adventure back into sport climbing!!!!

Joking aside, the SMC hangers should be replaced. When I replaced the bolts and hangers with Jeff and Bill on The Membrane a few years ago, a lot of the bolts that had SMC hangers on them were bent near the head of the bolt from too much leverage being placed on them from the SMC hangers.