Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Iron Butte
Select Route:
Au-Natural T 
Baboon Safari T 
Beholders Eye T 
Binkys Revenge T 
Eagles Nest Dihederal T 
Grip Master T,S 
Hanz Solo S 
Local Crow-Motion S 
Locally Owned S 
No-Stick-Um T 
NYX S 
Red Beard T 
Rolling Crow S 
Spudz T 
Wall, The T 
Wild Women of the Planet Playtex T,S 

Grip Master 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 719
Submitted By: Scott "Scoboni" Powell on Apr 16, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Beta photo showing

1. Wild Women of the Planet Pl...

Description 

To get to this excellent face climb consisting of small cracks and finger holds, you must climb either Wild Women of the Planet Playtex or Red Beard. Look for the bolts on the right side of Red Beard's crack. Start below the first bolt and end at the small ledge at the top of the face. there are two 5.10b moves. The first is just past the second bolt and the second is at the fourth bolt. Use the two chains at the end to top rope or rap off. You can also follow the 5.6 crack and blocks to the top. Protecting there is sketchy, as you're at the top of the butte where the dirt meets the rock.

Location 

Route 3 in the photos.

Protection 

Depending on how you get to there. If climbing Wild Women and you're planning to rap off, quick draws and a long sling to prevent rope drag after Wild Women's fourth bolt are all that are needed.

If you're climbing Red Beard or planning on climbing to the top after completing Grip Master carry pro to 1 1/2 inches.


Comments on Grip Master Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ron Anderson
Mar 21, 2009
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

first ascent, Ron Anderson, Jim Arnold 1990, Ron...


also note, Dano and I replaced all the biners on the anchors there once, but sadly they were all taken...We had spent a full weekend going around "sprucing" up anchors on all our local routes.
By Ron Anderson
Jun 18, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

if you do WW to GM, use a long sling on the last bolt of Wild women and a semi long one on the first bolt of grip master, youll slide nicely.
By Patrick Mulligan
Feb 27, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Fun continuation of the slab climbing on WWOPP, but the bolts are in strange locations and don't seem to follow the natural line. watch for broken and loose rock the horizontal break before the steeper moves at the top and bring a 1.5-2" cam or tricam to protect those steep moves at the Horizontal.
By RDA
Jun 6, 2013

Left handed by chance? lol!;-)
By Matthew Moore
Sep 26, 2013

Ron Anderson: complete fraud and pathological liar. Dano wouldn't have given a dipshit like you the time of day. I think I'll link some of your neverending lies from Supertopo here, just so those who haven't already figured out what a poseur you are might see the definitive proof.
By RDA
Sep 28, 2013

BWAAAAHHAHAAAA! Great to know i still live in your rather empty head mathew (psycho) moore.. Now go FUKK yur self eh...Must still be pissed that your ways got you booted off Supertopo.. BWAAAAAhahahahahahahahahahahahahahahhaahahahahahahhhhahaaaaaaaa...