Jakob following the FA of The Boy Who Lived 5.9...
Yup... Its a harry potter theme, deal with it, haha...This hidden micro crag is located in the back woods of Goffstown NH... The existing routes were put up by Lee Hansche and Jakob Montoya starting in the spring of 2007... Others may have climbed here in the past but there was no sign of any activity... Developement was done without any bolts and it should stay that way... There are great trees for setting up top ropes and most of the routes put up so far have been led either ground up or in a headpoint style using sometimes tricky, suspect or wide spread trad gear.... A few of the moderate routes host pretty good gear placements... Lots of loose rock was cleaned from the steeper routes and what is left for loose stuff is pretty well stuck... You should however be careful yarding on anything thats not super solid... We have been unable to figure out who owns the land the cliffs are on so care should be taken not to upset land owners and respect should be the rule when meeting people in these woods... I don't climb here too often but i would be bummed if the cliff was closed to climbing since its literally 1 mile from my house...
Directions- the crag is found by taking east dunbarton rd. to montelona rd. in goffstown for a mile or two to a powerline area with a small cliff visible from the road... park well off the road just before the powerline area... from the parking spot hike in to the woods and at an off road trail head right and hike for 5-10 minutes until you see the crag on your left... there are a few cliffs but the gem, and the only one we have climbed on is the last one down... it has a steep overhang in the middle with less severe angles on either side...
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Grimauld Place:
Cool steep climbing... Mega crimpy in the crux with cool fun moves the whole way... Recomended!Climb up to the steep wall and get a piece in a crystal pocket... Micro crimp your way up then dyno (well above your gear) to a really good jug and some more gear... Climb up to a good rest and pull straight over one more bulge at 5.11ish... Belay from trees... Described for the lead but toprope recommended first unless you really rock......[more]Browse More Classics in NH
By lee hansche Administrator From: goffstown, nh Feb 21, 2010
There is a long history of keeping little crags like this secret (as we did for a few years)... We found however that we don't often use it and no one else did either so we decided to share it... If you do visit Grimauld please do your best to avoid compromising access...
No, this isn't the same cliff that E-Man climbs at. From what lee told me its part of the same band of rock as that cliff though. When I spoke to E-Man last he was still keeping it quiet. Jay, you can send Lee or me a message and we can point you in the right direction if you need a refresher.
By lee hansche Administrator From: goffstown, nh Feb 27, 2010
Jay, as kevin said this is not the same place eman climbs at... the crag he climbs at "doesn't exist" haha this one does :)
Went on an attempted exploration of Grimauld today, near the powerlines, and in front of the fire access path (with chain link) is a NO TRESSPASS SIGN? Lee do you know if this is "NEW" or should I have just walked right past it? Land access as you have stated, and of which I agree (citing Joe English) is precious...I don't want to be the one who places this crag at risk, but that said , would love to see it....any comment or email appreciaited (Sean...from New Boston )!
By lee hansche Administrator From: goffstown, nh Oct 18, 2011
i always thought of those signs being for the powerline area... i dont enter from there but cut through the woods up the road a little... the trails out there are pretty well used and there are other trails in that are not posted... i use this cause its the easiest... like i said im not sure what the deal is with access, i just try to behave while im out there... your call really