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Routes in Chaos Boulder
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Chaos V8 7B |
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Circus Trick V6 7A |
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Circus Trick Right V6 7A |
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Death Flakes V1 5 R |
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Grim Reacher Direct V8 7B |
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Grim Reacher, The V5 6C |
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Hell Belly V10-11 8A |
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Hell Belly Stand V8 7B |
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Phantom Fighter V11 8A |
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Phantom Fighter (Stand) V9 7C |
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Press tight V3 6A |
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Rampage V3 6A |
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| Type: | Boulder, 30 ft (9 m) |
| FA: | Tait Rees |
| Page Views: | 2,106 total · 19/month |
| Shared By: | ben jammin on Jan 25, 2015 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
Start as for the original Grim Reacher with a high left hand sloper and a right hand about shoulder height. Move up and around the corner to the crimp rail then to the large sloping edge about 15 feet up.
This is where the line goes straight up, instead of out right around the corner to the keyed in block. An intimidating highball for sure.
The crux is moving from the larger sloper to a small crimp rail system about 4 feet farther up. Once on the crimp go for big holds over the lip. You'll be quite a ways off the ground at that point so an armada of pads is a good idea.
Originally rated V7 a few holds have broke including a fairly critical undercling that no longer exists. Coincidently, holds have broken at the start that make it much easier than before. All and all, the crux up high has gotten harder with breakage.
Highball'n and breaking holds... Get some
This is where the line goes straight up, instead of out right around the corner to the keyed in block. An intimidating highball for sure.
The crux is moving from the larger sloper to a small crimp rail system about 4 feet farther up. Once on the crimp go for big holds over the lip. You'll be quite a ways off the ground at that point so an armada of pads is a good idea.
Originally rated V7 a few holds have broke including a fairly critical undercling that no longer exists. Coincidently, holds have broken at the start that make it much easier than before. All and all, the crux up high has gotten harder with breakage.
Highball'n and breaking holds... Get some
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