Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
d. Strictly - Shockley's
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anguish T 
Armadillo's Delight T 
Calisthenic T 
Epiclepsy TR 
Gaston T 
Glypnod T 
Gorilla My Dreams T 
Grim-Ace Face T 
Hi Coroner! T 
High Corner T 
Midnight Cowboy T 
Nemesis T 
Oscar and Charlie T 
PR T 
Revenge of the Relics T,TR 
Ribless (a.k.a. Spare Ribs) T,TR 
Ribs T 
Ruby Saturday Direct T 
Shockley's Ceiling T 
Simple Ceilings T 
Splashtic T 
Strictly From Nowhere T 
Travels With Charley T 

Grim-Ace Face 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Jim McCarthy, Royal and Liz Robbins, 1966
Page Views: 2,482
Submitted By: Ross Fadely on Jan 10, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (29)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Tricia nearing the top of P3

Description 

Great route that is not for the meek or inexperienced. Loose rock is found on the first two pitches, but it's not a horror show.

P1- Climb the nice, steep face to the obvious ledge. Belay below the right facing corner.

P2- A good pitch; keep a watchful eye out for loose rock. Climb the right facing corner and traverse a few feet under the overhang. Climb up and left over the hang via some exciting moves. Continue straight up past more questionable stone to the GT and a short, right-facing corner.

P3- Wild and committing! Up the short corner, then traverse under the overhang. Begin the grunt-fest by pulling the overhang at a short left facing corner. Continue up to the Shockley's Ceiling belay.

From the top, descend via a bolted rappel line over Strictly From Nowhere.


Location 

15 feet right of PR and about 50 feet right of Shockley's Ceiling.


Protection 

Standard rack to 3".



Photos of Grim-Ace Face Slideshow Add Photo
Looking down at P2
Looking down at P2
Tricia nearing the top of P2
Tricia nearing the top of P2
Unknown climber pulled the roof on Grim-Face Ace. Perfect style! This dude made it look easy.
Unknown climber pulled the roof on Grim-Face Ace. ...
Comments on Grim-Ace Face Add Comment
Show which comments
By eric larson
From: aurora, co
Apr 16, 2008
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

be very very careful when topping out the 2nd pitch.. there is a huge loose rock that is just asking to be pulled on... A, it will scare the shit out of you when you pull on it and it rocks.. and B if it does fall it would take out your belayer.. so, as always in the gunks, use caution.

that being said, pitch 3 has yet another gunks classic ceiling! Bring out the balls of steel and iron ovaries for this one!

By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
May 25, 2009

This is one of the best 9's on the planet. Full of variety; face, roofs, traverses and one major commitment on P3. It's ballsy alright, but, tons of fun.

By bheller
From: SL UT
Oct 22, 2010

Glad you enjoyed it... spend a bit more time traveling the planet:)

By carl al
Jul 7, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

Nice climb, the 3rd pitch roof is bold but has bomber protection at the crux, if you're willing to hang out and place it. First pitch has some runout in the mid section but on good holds. thought it was pg overall.

By Simon Thompson
From: New Paltz, NY
Jul 24, 2014

Held off on this one for quite some time and was a wee bit disappointed. That's what I get for having expectations! Pitch one has really nice face climbing with a bit o' run out. Pitch two has a fun roof(hard for the grade) and then 40' of climbing on suspect rock with some opportunities to move onto even more suspect rock. Pitch 3 is a blast!