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Griffo 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: unknown to me
Season: spring to fall
Page Views: 1,162
Submitted By: Tony B on May 9, 2006
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (37)
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Starting up Griffo
Climbing restricted due to tourist safety MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A short route with a short approach. A bit harder than the 5.6 grade given by nation-wide standards, but maybe accurate locally. The climb goes from a scrambling to stemming with good locks and jams, then back to jugs at the top.


Location 

From the down-walk from the rim, come back perhaps 20 meters back toward the rim overlook. The first solid-looking set of cracks is the climb, and is the closest route to the down-climb.


Protection 

A single set of stoppers and cams from 1" to 3". Setting an anchor up top will take some ingenuity and judgement.



Photos of Griffo Slideshow Add Photo
Griffo crack
Griffo crack
On Griffo route.  Crack on the left is Bush Rush
BETA PHOTO: On Griffo route. Crack on the left is Bush Rush
Griffo
Griffo
I felt like this was the crux of it and right after 1 or 2 more moves it's an easy scramble to the top.
I felt like this was the crux of it and right afte...
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Griffo
BETA PHOTO: Griffo
Comments on Griffo Add Comment
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By Tim Heid
From: Scottsdale, AZ
Sep 15, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

There were a few wasps floating around the crack last weekend, so check it out before you start off of the first ledge.

Also there are 2 stuck cams deep in the main crack, but both look like they've been there for a long time and I'd be careful trusting the slings on them.

On another note, this was my first trad lead and now I'm 100% addicted. woohoo

By Todd Savoy
From: Flagstaff
Nov 12, 2009

For the anchor we decided to use the tree thats about 35 feet back from the top of the route. Works great and is really safe for belaying a second but obviously no good for a TR setup.

By Lorenzo Tragen
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jul 22, 2011

There's a tree far back from the ledge and an embedded bolder at the top. Easy to protect and fun. My first trad lead, too.

By Micah Kurtz
Aug 4, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

Definitely a fun climb. This was only my second trad lead so it felt a little hard to me. I would recommend doing it.

By AGirlNamed
Oct 7, 2011

I use my 'let to sling the boulder at the top for an anchor

By Greg-Az
From: Prescott Az
Feb 26, 2012

If you scrable up just to the right of Griffo about 20ft there will be a small square ledge on a pedestal with some Graffitti on the wall.

In this corner is some nice Off-width climbing that takes a four pretty well. You climb this corner for about 20-30 feet and then traverse back left to Griffo. Its good fun, fist jams, or for my little hands elbows.

If I had to guess at the rating maybe 5.8?

I dont know why it isnt posted on Mountain project. I will look at the Cheap Way to Fly book to see if its listed there.

-Enjoy

By JBain
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jan 7, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

For an anchor on this route try this. As you are topping out at this route look right, there is a small hole in between two rocks that you can use as part of an anchor system. Just through a runner through there and girth hitch it. through a #3/4 cam(can't remember which fit better) in the crack just left of where you placed the runner I just mentioned, equalize the two and your done.