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YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Arno Ilgner and Kelly Moore
Season: Spring through Fall
Page Views: 845
Submitted By: Rodger Raubach on Mar 18, 2011
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BETA PHOTO: Starting ledge is still under water when this phot...


Climb a steep, flaky face, unprotected for about 20-25 feet to a sloping ramp. Move into the right-facing shallow dihedral and follow it to the rim; primarily face climbing adjacent to the dihedral, which can be used for stemming and an occasional hold on the edge, but the crack in the base takes small pieces. Very continuous climbing, and easy to get pumped trying to place pro. A very nice line on generally excellent rock. Possibly the hardest route I've climbed at Fremont Canyon.


The route is slightly downstream from Hemateria Left. Rappel into the canyon from a bolted anchor to a ledge at the water's edge, a 110 foot rappel.


Small wires, RPs, and medium nuts; could use small cams up to a #1 Camalot and smaller tricams.

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By Rodger Raubach
Mar 19, 2011

If you are new to Fremont Canyon and the local grading, it might be prudent to toprope this climb. The 5.10d grade may be a bit of a sandbag. I certainly thought it was verging on 5.11a. The original grade assigned by Kelly Moore was "only" 5.10c, but upgraded by Steve Petro in his guidebook. Better "eat your Wheaties" before doing this climb.