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This beautiful route is a classic 5.8 sport route. Cool moves, excellent rock, and great exposure define this route.
Pitch 1 (5.8 - 50m) - Climb up an arrete then out onto the face. Pass at possibly belay at 20m. Cross three overhangs to the belay station (shared with Keel Haul Wall), the second overhang is the toughest.
Pitch 2 (5.8 - 25m) - ignore the bolt on the overhang to the right; this belongs to KHW; instead move stright up from the belay past two fixed pins and a possible, bomber 'knot' placement (jam a prussick into the crack; you know you want to!) move right onto the slab to the first bolt (30' runout). Climb up to the crux overhang the over and to the anchor.
Pitch 3 (5.7 - 30m) Traverse to the right to the obvious, bolt protected weakness then straight up following the hard to see bolts to the anchor.
Pitch 4 (5.7 - 30m) Traverse right along the bolts on easy slab, there is one tricky vertical spot half way up.
Pitch 5 (5.6 - 20m) Follow the bolts to the left along the slab to the obvious top out (usually pretty slimy rock here). Belay off the tree.
Decent: Walk off as for KHW.
Located slightly left of Keel Haul Wall, look for the bolts 5 meters left of the start of KHW, start from the small bay.
Alpine Sport - significant runouts between bolts on easy terrain, but all cruxs are well protected. Exposure and runouts can be intimidating for the new leader.
|By jon jugenheimer|
Sep 1, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
I believe that there were bolts added since this route was first posted on MP. I do not think that it would feel run out to the 5.8 leader.
We also raped the route as there were not parties below us. 3 double rope raps to the ground.