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Grey Waves S 
Keel Haul Wall T 

Grey Waves 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Sport, 5 pitches, 500', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
Season: April - October
Page Views: 1,539
Submitted By: ihategrigris on Mar 19, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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BETA PHOTO: Looking up pitch 3. watch the rope drag on this pi...
Old access crosses private property MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This beautiful route is a classic 5.8 sport route. Cool moves, excellent rock, and great exposure define this route.

Pitch 1 (5.8 - 50m) - Climb up an arrete then out onto the face. Pass at possibly belay at 20m. Cross three overhangs to the belay station (shared with Keel Haul Wall), the second overhang is the toughest.

Pitch 2 (5.8 - 25m) - ignore the bolt on the overhang to the right; this belongs to KHW; instead move stright up from the belay past two fixed pins and a possible, bomber 'knot' placement (jam a prussick into the crack; you know you want to!) move right onto the slab to the first bolt (30' runout). Climb up to the crux overhang the over and to the anchor.

Pitch 3 (5.7 - 30m) Traverse to the right to the obvious, bolt protected weakness then straight up following the hard to see bolts to the anchor.

Pitch 4 (5.7 - 30m) Traverse right along the bolts on easy slab, there is one tricky vertical spot half way up.

Pitch 5 (5.6 - 20m) Follow the bolts to the left along the slab to the obvious top out (usually pretty slimy rock here). Belay off the tree.

Decent: Walk off as for KHW.


Location 

Located slightly left of Keel Haul Wall, look for the bolts 5 meters left of the start of KHW, start from the small bay.


Protection 

Alpine Sport - significant runouts between bolts on easy terrain, but all cruxs are well protected. Exposure and runouts can be intimidating for the new leader.



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By jon jugenheimer
From: Madison
Sep 1, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I believe that there were bolts added since this route was first posted on MP. I do not think that it would feel run out to the 5.8 leader.

We also raped the route as there were not parties below us. 3 double rope raps to the ground.

By Monkey man403
Jul 15, 2014

There are a couple of sequences through the first two pitches that hit the low 5.10 mark and it did feel a bit run out, but the "fun factor" on this route was great with the level of exposure for the grade.

The 30' run out has had a bolt added