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 ADVANCED
The South Slabs
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aunt Edna's Costume Jewelry 
Bad Boys Bolt 
Beer for Breakfast 
Between Nothingness and Eternity 
Birdland 
Black Market 
Blackstreak 
Dirty Love 
Fun Flake 
Funkativity 
Go Spuds Go 
Good Girls Don't 
Grey Rat Rocksicle 
Jazzman (a.k.a. Turdland) 
Shadow Dance 
Slab Happy 
Sugar Mountain 
Two Minds Meet 
Wigs on Fire 
Unsorted Routes:

Grey Rat Rocksicle 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 374
Submitted By: Aaron Martinuzzi on Feb 5, 2010
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Grey Rat Rocksickle - Blue; Shadow Dance...

Description 

Grey Rat Rocksickle is a fun slab and crack line that climbs < 10 feet left of Shadow Dance.

Begin on a rock at the base of the slab, 15 or 20 feet "downhill" of the bushes on the upper part of the ledge. Run it out through some 5.8 face moves to a left-angling seam that will offer some small, tricky pro. Continue up the face, connecting protectable features with enjoyable slab climbing. Finish up at the chain anchors beneath the roof, or belay there and climb a second pitch through the crumbly, licheny left side of the roof above and continue to the summit.


Location 

This line is located on the upper tier of the South Slabs and climbs the face just left of the right-most line of bolts on the wall to gain a thin crack that angles up and left. Approach via any of the routes on the lower tier, Aunt Edna's Costume Jewelry being a convenient, fun option, as it ends almost immediately below this route.


Protection 

Bust out the small stuff for this climb. RPs, small cams, and maybe offsets (nuts and/or cams) are definitely necessary to protect the seam. Above that, the pro continues to be small and tricky. Clipping the first two bolts of Shadow Dance takes the spice out of the opening runout, if you're so inclined.



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