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The Sanford Wall
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Fish-eyed Fool S 
Grey Matter S 
Junkyard S 
Rollo S 
You Big Dummy  S 
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Grey Matter 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Eddie Whittemore - 1992
Page Views: 822
Submitted By: saxfiend on Mar 19, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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BETA PHOTO: Me leading Grey Matter. You can see the rocks belo...


Suffering by comparison with the much better routes on the Sanford Wall, Grey Matter is also a little sandbagged. The tree that leans inches away from the rock is awkward to avoid as you climb, and in places tempting to use as part of the climb.

Starting below a right-facing arete, follow the corner past bolts and a hollow flake to the top.


Sanford Wall section, at the far right end of the wall, where a tree grows close to the rock.


3 bolts, bolted anchors.

Photos of Grey Matter Slideshow Add Photo
Shows the anchors.
BETA PHOTO: Shows the anchors.

Comments on Grey Matter Add Comment
Show which comments
By lid
Apr 5, 2010

Missing a bolt (or 2) at the bottom. Maybe 25 ft. to the first available bolt.
By Andrew R.
From: Fairfax, VA
Dec 21, 2010

Concur with Lid. As of Dec 17, 2o10 first bolt (or two) was missing. As such, dont think this route gets much action.
By JohnWesely
From: Red River Gorge
Aug 27, 2012

Bolts are back. Not sure why you would want to climb it though.
By Charles Cooper
Jun 16, 2013

Somewhat interesting 5.9. First bolt is pretty high and would be a bad fall because of rocks below, but the climbing at the start is pretty easy. The tree is weird. Worth doing especially if you lead it.
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