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 ADVANCED
Daff Dome, Main Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bearded Clam T 
Blown Away T 
Bombs over Tokyo (1st pitch) T 
Chvchichaschtli S 
Cooke Book T 
Crescent Arch T 
El Condor T 
Grey Ghost T 
Plagiarism T 
R.C.A. T 
R.C.A. (1st pitch) T 
West Crack T 
West of the Witch S 
Witch of the West S 
Unsorted Routes:

Grey Ghost 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 400'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Royal Robbins, TM Herbert 1970
Season: Gets afternoon sun
Page Views: 94
Submitted By: john durr on Aug 15, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: Grey Ghost pitch 1 - Daff Dome West Face

Description 

A good route to get scared on. Mostly excellent, run-out climbing on large knobs with some wandering on the upper half.

"The Gray Ghost was my hero... and he still is." — Bruce Wayne

P1: From a large ledge with Pines, head up and right on easy slabs 40 feet to a ledge (possible belay), work up easy climbing with knobs near a small right facing corner and a thin seam crack. Up the giant knobs above to a bolt just below a prominent horizontal dike. Make some steeper moves 5.8 to lower angle 5.6-5.7 run-out terrain with more great knobs. Drift slightly left to gain a series of horizontals and pockets with gear.

Above the line is less obvious, steepens and good knobs get harder to find. Follow the grey wáter streak aiming between patches of smooth gold polish on the right and left to two well spaced appart bolts. Make a short 5.9 traverse left to a right facing corner with finger to hand size cams. Some cool liebacking gains a large ledge with a spruce tree and bolted belay. (5.9 with 5.8+ run-out ~220 feet)

P2: From the right (south) end of the ledge, work right and up past a couple shallow horizontal cracks with cam placements ~30 feet to the main horizontal crack. Hand traverse this down and right to a solitary large slippery knob. Mantle then continue up and right past a short thin crack/flake. Various belay options above. (5.8 ~100 feet)

P3: Hike up fun 4th class to the top.

Location 

Takes a grey water streak to the right of R.C.A. and Chvchichaschtli on the west face of Daff Dome.

Protection 

Light single rack of cams to 3", set of small stoppers, set metolious TCU's smallest to orange/red or tricams. Long slings. Three new ASCA protection bolts.


Photos of Grey Ghost Slideshow Add Photo
Pitch 2 Grey Ghost - Daff Dome West Face
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 2 Grey Ghost - Daff Dome West Face

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