Grendel 5.11b
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Nearing the end of the difficulties of Grendel. Ju...
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Thompson Canyon MORE INFO >>>
The gate to Thompson Canyon's southern end is locked and is no longer a viable option for short and convenient access. The standard access is now via the longer, rougher Davenport Lookout/Thompson Canyon route.
New Mexico CRAG (NMCRAG) will continue to be in contact with the ranch owners and the Forest Service to see if it can resolve this issue. In the meantime, please respect the closure, spread the word and don't attempt to drive through the private ranch.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description Easy start to an unexpected hard move where the holds aren't as good as they look, to a great rest. At this point follow the right line of bolts up the steep face on mostly good holds. Watch out as there are a few heavily chalked sucker holds that lead to dead ends. Rest at the ledge up top, then finish to the anchors. Can also be done using the start for Once Upon A Time and traversing left, this makes it a bit harder, probably hard 11b, easy 11c.
Location Between Tinkerbell's Nightmare and Once Upon A Time
Protection 10 bolts + Anchors
Staying focused and committed on the upper section...
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Mike on Grendel.
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Mike still on Grendel....
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Mike hitting the chains on Grendel.
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Tammy clipping the anchors of Grendel
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Marci on Grendel
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Tammy on the upper section of Grendel
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Ricky in the mid-section moves of Grendel
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Ricky topping out Grendel
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By DisturbingThePeace
From: Albuquerque, NM
Apr 2, 2007
| 4 star route if it were any where else in NM but the tower. It is definitly easier to skip the second to last bolt then to lean way left to clip it. Just make two extra moves on jugs and your standing on the ledge. Even if you fell it would be better than taking a clipping fall here which is quite possible if your pumped. |
By Allison Fritz
Oct 21, 2007
| DisturbingThePeace, thanks for the comment. I agree with your beta, I moved up to the nice holds as you suggested and clipped down which was not that bad. |
By Robin
From: Albuquerque, NM
May 2, 2008
| I agree on the moving past the bolt to the ledge. I was pumped and in an attempt to put the draw on I bashed my hand on the rock and dropped the draw. I had a new draw on and clipped by the time everyone below was done watching my draw bounce.... New racking 'biners!!!!! |
By Pat Mac
From: Tempe
May 7, 2012
| The warm up on this side of the Tower. |
By Jeremy Aslaksen
From: Albuquerque, NM
May 9, 2012
| David...quit whining like a baby. That is the warmup for that side Dude.
11b is like 5.10 in Datil anyhoo...
And yes...that would make Goliath a warmup for some.
Lighten up... |
By J Q
May 9, 2012
| I thought Grendel was too sharp and was not consistent enough for a good warm up. It was a decent climb, but it was not on the same status as most of the other climbs on the tower. I give it a C. The five climbs to the right get an A, and I believe they are better for warming up. |
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