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 ADVANCED
North (Left) Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Full Rubber Mission S 
Glenda S 
Grendel S 
Jabberwocky S 
Once Upon a Time S 
Rumplestiltskin S 
Straight On Til Morning S 
Technowitch S 
Tinkerbell's Nightmare S 
White Witch S 

Grendel 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Adam Read, Beth Gillia
Page Views: 4,536
Submitted By: DisturbingThePeace on Jun 7, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (65)
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Nearing the end of the difficulties of Grendel. Ju...
Thompson Canyon MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Easy start to an unexpected hard move where the holds aren't as good as they look, to a great rest. At this point follow the right line of bolts up the steep face on mostly good holds. Watch out as there are a few heavily chalked sucker holds that lead to dead ends. Rest at the ledge up top, then finish to the anchors. Can also be done using the start for Once Upon A Time and traversing left, this makes it a bit harder, probably hard 11b, easy 11c.


Location 

Between Tinkerbell's Nightmare and Once Upon A Time


Protection 

10 bolts + Anchors



Photos of Grendel Slideshow Add Photo
Staying focused and committed on the upper section of Grendel.
Staying focused and committed on the upper section...
Mike on Grendel.
Mike on Grendel.
Ricky in the mid-section moves of Grendel
Ricky in the mid-section moves of Grendel
Marci on Grendel
Marci on Grendel
Tammy clipping the anchors of Grendel
Tammy clipping the anchors of Grendel
Mike still on Grendel....
Mike still on Grendel....
Tammy on the upper section of Grendel
Tammy on the upper section of Grendel
Mike hitting the chains on Grendel.
Mike hitting the chains on Grendel.
Ricky topping out Grendel
Ricky topping out Grendel
Comments on Grendel Add Comment
Show which comments
By DisturbingThePeace
From: Albuquerque, NM
Apr 2, 2007

4 star route if it were any where else in NM but the tower. It is definitly easier to skip the second to last bolt then to lean way left to clip it. Just make two extra moves on jugs and your standing on the ledge. Even if you fell it would be better than taking a clipping fall here which is quite possible if your pumped.

By Allison Fritz
Oct 21, 2007

DisturbingThePeace, thanks for the comment. I agree with your beta, I moved up to the nice holds as you suggested and clipped down which was not that bad.

By Robin
From: Albuquerque, NM
May 2, 2008

I agree on the moving past the bolt to the ledge. I was pumped and in an attempt to put the draw on I bashed my hand on the rock and dropped the draw. I had a new draw on and clipped by the time everyone below was done watching my draw bounce.... New racking 'biners!!!!!

By Pat Mac
From: Tempe
May 7, 2012

The warm up on this side of the Tower.

By J Q
May 9, 2012

I thought Grendel was too sharp and was not consistent enough for a good warm up. It was a decent climb, but it was not on the same status as most of the other climbs on the tower. I give it a C. The five climbs to the right get an A, and I believe they are better for warming up.