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Rock Of Ages
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Celestial Gate T 
Center Dihedral T 
Days of Heaven T 
Desolation Angels T 
Greensleeves S 
Hats Off T 
Heavenly Daze S 
Multiple Blues T 
Nameless Demons T 
Original Sin T 
Rope Rider T 
Telekinesis S 
Wasp, The T 

Greensleeves 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Gillett & McMahan - 1997
Page Views: 2,386
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Jul 19, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Description 

Greensleeves takes a line on the upper tier of Rock of Ages, just left of a black streak and left of The Wasp.

Follow an easy finger crack for 20' to the first bolt. The rest of the climb is a very sustained crimping - as Bernard Gillett says in his guidebook: a whole lot of 5.11 and a 5.12 move near the top.


Protection 

A couple wires for the start and 9 bolts.



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By david goldstein
Jul 20, 2004
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Somewhat similar in character to Untitled in Eldo and Plan B in Boulder Canyon: no stopper moves but there are virtually no rests and you could blow it almost anywhere. A couple of the clips are just reachable at 5'7". The holds are still consolidating -- my partner I both had holds crumble under us. Wear good edging shoes This route faces south but would best be done when shaded. At the end of pitch the natural line trends left, away from the anchors and pretty far from the last bolt; this stretch can be protected with a small RP which can be backcleaned (straightening out the rope) once good holds are reached.

By Anonymous Coward
May 9, 2005

Excellent route, probably harder than The Wasp! At the last bolt, one can go straight up at .10+ [eliminating] the [runout].

By Alex Shainman
From: the best place right now!
Feb 24, 2010

If you liked this rig...check out these:

"CO Northern Front Range 5.12 Pure Slab Trilogy" (my suggestions and all non-Splatte routes).
#1 is Between Nothingness and Eternity (Crago Luebben) at Greyrock
#2 is Frisky Puppies (Donahue/Harvey). A funky, sustained friction-paddling and smedging pitch at Lumpy Ridge on the Book.
#3 is Blood For Oil (also Luebben) on Combat Rock, for a friction slab and patina steep face/slab pitch and a bulge to steep slab 2nd pitch.

Honorable mentions:

  • ** Radlands Of Infinity on Blob Rock (1st pitch is crux and it's a scratch-fest/ 2nd pitch is thin crack and funky slab---link pitches)
  • **Razor Hein Stick on Bitty Buttress (short but fierce friction bumps)

By Ryan Kempf
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 1, 2014
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

The start protects really well with a green C3, or offset cam in that range, and a #6 brass offset. Other than that, bolted very well.