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Mt. Webster - Winter Ice &
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
"North Slabs"  T 
Central Couloir T 
Gallery Route 
Greens Chasm T 
Horseshoe Gully 
Landslide Gully 
Pilgrimage, The 
Shoestring Gully 
Tunnel Zone & Gallery Area Ramp 
Unknown 

Greens Chasm 

WI3 M1-2

   
Type:  Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 2 pitches, 2500'
Original: WI3 M1-2 [details]
FA: FA: Kurt Winkler, Peter Gamache March 1989
Page Views: 6,319
Submitted By: nhclimber on Feb 22, 2010  with updates from Zac.St.Jules and 1 more

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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BETA PHOTO: Approach to Central Couloir and Green Chasm

Description 

Classic climb in an amazing location. Climb the 2000' of fun super laidback ice up to the Webster cliffs. Route finding is no issue on this one. Move right along a tree ledge until you look up into the Greens proper. The first pitch can be mixed climbing (M1-M2..."feels like 5.5-5.6") depending on variable conditions. The second pitch climbs the main flow that comes down on the left WI3.

There is a rugged looking flow that we'll call Greens Chasm Direct that looks pretty hard. This ice fall comes down on the right through a couple overhangs and crazy looking parasols. Also, there seems to be some great mixed potential up here as well.

Location 

Start as for Central Couloir but break right at the headwall. First gulley to the right of Central

Protection 

Nuts, screws


Photos of Greens Chasm Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Green Chasm and the other two "Chasms" (...
BETA PHOTO: Green Chasm and the other two "Chasms" (...
Rock Climbing Photo: Super Telephoto of Green Chasm
BETA PHOTO: Super Telephoto of Green Chasm
Rock Climbing Photo: Rock step with a little of ice on it.
BETA PHOTO: Rock step with a little of ice on it.
Rock Climbing Photo: third anchor probably unnecessary since you can to...
third anchor probably unnecessary since you can to...
Rock Climbing Photo: looking down the chasm from the rock step
looking down the chasm from the rock step
Rock Climbing Photo: second pitch can take you to the top trees, but i ...
second pitch can take you to the top trees, but i ...
Rock Climbing Photo: the rock step covered in ice
the rock step covered in ice
Rock Climbing Photo: Zach on the lower half of the rock step
Zach on the lower half of the rock step
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up at the last pitch of Greens.
BETA PHOTO: Looking up at the last pitch of Greens.
Rock Climbing Photo: no more chockstone. more like one easy fifth class...
no more chockstone. more like one easy fifth class...

Comments on Greens Chasm Add Comment
Show which comments
By E thatcher
From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Feb 22, 2010

FA: Kurt Winkler, Peter Gamache March 1989. This looks Like a cool Alpine route that I've been hoping to do the past few weeks. I've been wondering if you could link Half Breed into Greens. Any thoughts on that possibility after being up there?! I just don't know if Half Breed terminates to high to get into Greens.
By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Feb 22, 2010

You can pretty much do anything up there, there is so much ice everywhere it's just a matter of what you want to get into. Any of the slab routes can be done to skip central couloir's lower section. You will just traverse over rom wherever you top out. I've been up there a few times now and I don't think that I could point out any of the slab routes, just aim for bulges and pro. Greens was a lot easier than I expected it to be. I've had some strong friends go up there and have interesting experiences. I really want to try the other finish and also there is just sooooo much rock up there. I may be back up there next weekend to poke around. Oh, I fixed a nut on the rock step if anyone is interested!
By E thatcher
From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Feb 22, 2010

Booty?!? I'm there! Thanks for the beta, sounds like a really cool spot.
By Ben Townsend
Mar 9, 2014

Elegant climb. A couple of 2-3" cams are nice for the rock step. We didn't see any ice at all on the left above the rock step, but despite the very imposing overhangs and parasols, the ice on the right was only NEI 3 or maybe 3+ at most.

For extra adventure, we climbed a narrow tongue of crusty snow up the friction slabs below, then traversed back into the gully. No idea where we were in relation to the ice routes described in the guidebook; we were mostly just left of the rock route A Bit Short, crossing it right to left down low, then back left to right up high. Technically easy, but the commitment factor was high.
By Jim Dinan
Jan 22, 2015

Climbed Greens on 1/18/2015 and it looks like the upper part of the rock step has fallen into the chasm. Still a fun climb, but the rock step is now much shorter and easier.
By lucander
From: Stone Ridge, NY
Jan 17, 2016

This one will be best appreciated by those who would rather get a lot of cardio exercise trudging uphill to climb 2-3 pretty good pitches of ice instead of hanging around Frankenstein waiting a turn to sink tools into picked out columns.

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