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Greens Chasm 

5.6 WI3

   
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Type: Trad, Ice, Alpine, 2 pitches, 2500 feet
Consensus: 5.6 WI3 [details]
FA: FA: Kurt Winkler, Peter Gamache March 1989
Submitted By: nhclimber on Feb 22, 2010

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the rock step covered in ice

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Description 

Classic climb in an amazing location. Climb the 2000' of fun super laidback ice up to the webster cliffs. Route finding is no issue on this one. Move right along a tree ledge until you look up into the Greens proper. The first pitch tackles the mixed step and is of variable condition 5.6. The second pitch climbs the main flow that comes down on the left WI3.

There is a rugged looking flow that we'll call Greens Chasm Direct that looks pretty hard. This ice fall comes down on the right through a couple overhangs and crazy looking parasols. Also, there seems to be some great mixed potential up here as well.


Location 

Start as for Central Couloir but break right at the headwall. First gulley to the right of Central


Protection 

Nuts, screws



Photos of Greens Chasm Slideshow Add Photo
Zach on the lower half of the rock step

Zach on the lower half of the rock step

looking down the chasm from the rock step

looking down the chasm from the rock step


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By E thatcher
From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Feb 22, 2010

FA: Kurt Winkler, Peter Gamache March 1989. This looks Like a cool Alpine route that I've been hoping to do the past few weeks. I've been wondering if you could link Half Breed into Greens. Any thoughts on that possibility after being up there?! I just don't know if Half Breed terminates to high to get into Greens.

By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Feb 22, 2010

You can pretty much do anything up there, there is so much ice everywhere it's just a matter of what you want to get into. Any of the slab routes can be done to skip central couloir's lower section. You will just traverse over rom wherever you top out. I've been up there a few times now and I don't think that I could point out any of the slab routes, just aim for bulges and pro. Greens was a lot easier than I expected it to be. I've had some strong friends go up there and have interesting experiences. I really want to try the other finish and also there is just sooooo much rock up there. I may be back up there next weekend to poke around. Oh, I fixed a nut on the rock step if anyone is interested!

By E thatcher
From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Feb 22, 2010

Booty?!? I'm there! Thanks for the beta, sounds like a really cool spot.