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The Main Wall
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Black Flies Consume Jim Dunn T,S 
Blurry Eyes T 
Bull Run T 
Fireside Crack T 
Gift, The T 
Ginsu Flake T 
Green Party T 
Green Thumb T 
Greenpeace T 
Hippy Bus T,S 
House Made of Dawn S 
I'm Still Here T 
Moldy Bolts T,S 
Remember Me T 
Stewart's Crack T 

Greenpeace 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: FA -Jamal Lee Elkin 10/2/01 clean aid, FFA 9/19/2010 Dmitriy Shirokov and Mark Sprague
Page Views: 3,223
Submitted By: M Sprague on May 10, 2010

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The incredible crack of Green Peace

Description 

This is a super classic, beautiful 200 foot finger and hand crack that becomes a line of pockets in the middle.
It was first aid soloed by Jamal in one rope stretching push, and with the addition of two bolted anchors and 3 protection bolts for the second pitch was recently freed by the team of Dmitriy Shirokov and Mark Sprague. Any aspiring hardman trad leader should make the effort to get them selves out to try it. It is a true NH classic, one of the plums of plums that Green's has to offer.

Take care protecting the bottom section, where the technical crux is, getting a semi blind small cam placement in the best spot. If you take your time getting this, and maybe down climb a few times to get a better look, you should be fine. Do tape well, hands and fingers.
After the first belay, you will ascend a short bulging corner to gain a cruxy, bolt protected pocket section, and then cruiser crack in corner to a nice rest on a big round flake to contemplate the puzzling finish run to the top.

After further cleaning and inspection, Dima found an offset cam could be used in lieu of the last bolt. A green cam could be placed in a pocket in exchange for the lower bolt also, but it would be in a handhold and would run more risk of the rope jamming. Certainly the route could be done by a stronger party as a single pitch avoiding the bolts if they wished. That would be a nice way to do it. If you do belay in the middle I suggest clipping the first bolt though to preclude a high fall factor fall onto the belay. We have decided to leave all the bolts for the time being, as all others who have been on the route since have suggested that (most people don't have offset cams), but once you have climbed it, let us know how you feel


Location 

about in the middle of the Main Wall, to the left of the Ginsu Flake.


Protection 

Trad and a few bolts on the second pitch. Bring stoppers and cams from small to #3 Camalot, with multiples of the smaller sizes. Save a #.4 gray, Camalot for your last piece on the second pitch. Anchors are bolted with quicklinks. 1-60 meter rope will get you to the ground with 2 rappels. There is a semi-blind small cam placement protecting the bottom crux. Take your time getting it right.



Photos of Greenpeace Slideshow Add Photo
Looking up the second pitch, prescrubbing, destorted from wide angle
Looking up the second pitch, prescrubbing, destort...
Looking down while cleaning the middle of the second pitch
BETA PHOTO: Looking down while cleaning the middle of the seco...
Me, on the cruxy start of Greenpeace
Me, on the cruxy start of Greenpeace
Chris higher on the first pitch
Chris higher on the first pitch
Distorted image of the start of Greenpeace
BETA PHOTO: Distorted image of the start of Greenpeace
95 foot first pitch of Greenpeace, 5.11+/12a
BETA PHOTO: 95 foot first pitch of Greenpeace, 5.11+/12a
Chris Magness going strong on an attemped 2nd ascent of Greenpeace
Chris Magness going strong on an attemped 2nd asce...
Dima on his way for the FFA
Dima on his way for the FFA
Comments on Greenpeace Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 1, 2011
By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Jun 14, 2010

What's the pro like for the pendulum over to Green Thumb?

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Jun 14, 2010

Go off the bolted anchor at the top of Greenpeace or good nuts and cams below. Eventually there may be a free line that would run up to the base of the crack from the first belay of Greenpeace and continue into Green Thumb, that will require a few bolts and a good reach.

By S. Neoh
Aug 16, 2010

Mark, are congratulations in order? You gave a grade of 11+ with the Beta photo. Did you free the route?

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Aug 16, 2010

Not yet..one hanged it. I took a few people out for the tour the last couple weekends and we got on the first pitch. Hard 11 seemed to be the consensus and 4 stars out of 3. We didn't have much time for multiple tries as we were checking out the whole cliff. I want to clean the first pitch a little more and I stayed out Sunday and started on the second pitch. It was nice to finally get a group of friends out there and have them all psyched for the place. A fair amount of drooling was going on.

By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Aug 17, 2010

Nice, I have a brit and a bachelor party I'm trying to move around so I can play again on Sat. Todd mentioned the OC? Thanks for showing us around. Pumped to get back out and make it happen!

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Sep 21, 2010

Free at last. After having Dima patiently belay me as I climbed up and down the crux about 8 times on my lead attempt, complaining about slimy holds and feeling like I was climbing with a hundred pound pack on my back, I handed over the sharp end to him and he fired it off with me seconding. Congrats are in order for a fine lead.

By S. Neoh
Sep 21, 2010

CONGRATS, Dima and Mark. Nice work.

By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Sep 21, 2010

Nice work on the free ascents to you both!

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Sep 21, 2010

Thanks. Dima is climbing very strong. As a warm up he flashed the first pitch on TR of a possible 12 project of mine before I even cleaned the thing. I think I need to put rocks in his chalkbag.

By S. Neoh
Sep 21, 2010

LOL. Or, vaseline on the sole of his climbing shoes!

By Dima
Sep 23, 2010
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

I think this is one of the best (if not the best) crack climb in New England. Many thanks to people discovering Green's and to Mark for re-discovering it, and giving whole new live to the Cliff!

By jason seaver
From: Estes Park, CO
Sep 26, 2010

Wow, nice work fellas. I wanna come back East and try this thing RIGHT NOW! I can't think of a single other 200' splitter in New England. Is there even 200' of crack climbing on The Prow?

By john strand
From: southern colo
Sep 28, 2010

The only 200' splitter in NE would be to do Zonkers 3x

By jason seaver
From: Estes Park, CO
Sep 29, 2010

Maybe 4 times.....

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Oct 24, 2010

11+ might be a sandbag. I just did Screaming Yellow Zonkers 11c and Zonked Out 12a this weekend and Greenpeace is way harder than Zonkers and the crux seemed harder than the one on Zonked to me also. I recommend both the Zonks as fun routes. I really liked them, but have to say I think Greenpeace is better than them both stacked on top of each other : ) Greenpeace is a little more gnarly though, so tape well.

By David Powers
Oct 24, 2010

OH SHIT Mark! You just dashed my hopes and dreams. I got totally spanked on Zonkers a few years ago when i tried it. I dont even know how to do a tape glove so i guess i am out for a free lead.

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Oct 25, 2010

LOL. No, give it a try. It's not that bad. It still needs a second ascent. If we get a few days of dry weather it should be good to go. That spot 25 feet up is always wet, but it doesn't matter, as you reach past it, The bottom section is what is key to be dry.

By john strand
From: southern colo
Oct 25, 2010

I always thought that Zonked was pretty solid 12a/b or so.

By chris magness
Oct 30, 2010

There's no such thing as a 12a traditional line in NH! Greens Cliff is going to be known for stellar and steep crack (especially Greenpeace) and hard, techy faces.

By john strand
From: southern colo
Oct 31, 2010

Heather ? White Eye ? Shadowline ? Women In Love ?

By chris magness
Oct 31, 2010

All 5.11+. I was just kidding. The ever so heavy 9+, 10+, 11+..

Heather is very painful. There should be a pain and a potential-for-losing-your finger grade, like Heather and Steaksauce.

By john strand
From: southern colo
Nov 1, 2010

YA Steaksauce- If I could ever get past the second move.

By seth c
Aug 28, 2011

Climbed this today. It goes in one pitch quite nicely with almost no rope drag as the route is a beautiful plum line. I was glad that there are bolts at the pocket section as I didn't bring offset cams and a fall without the proper protection would have you smacking off the slab below the corner. Overall one of the best trad lines I have climbed in New Hampshire.

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Aug 30, 2011

Nice link, Seth. Todd said you looked really solid on it. Was that an onsight? Did a grade of 12a seem about right? You lucked out getting that window of dry. David Powers said it was soaked at the bottom from the rain when he was out some days earlier, and then Irene came along. It's cool people are finally starting to try to free 357 too.

By seth c
Sep 1, 2011

It wasn't an onsight I was on the route two weeks before hand. The crux took a couple tries the first time but I thought 11d/12a seemed about right kinda finger size dependent. The crux was still wet when we climbed it last weekend and the climbing above the rest was also wet but the jams are locker. should be heading back out there for Sunday- Monday to work on 357 and maybe try the pitches above Black Flies Consume Jim Dunn.