|Type:||Sport, 1 pitch, 50'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]|
|FA:||Pete Delannoy, 1991|
|Submitted By:||bmdhacks on Jun 10, 2012|
|Comments on Greenhorns in Velvet||Add Comment|
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From: Lander, WY
Jul 6, 2012
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
At 5.7 (as of Bechtel 2011) you'd think this would be a great lead for beginners in the OK Corral. You'd be wrong. Don't get me wrong, it's a fun climb, but the beginning leader may want to look elsewhere and wander back when regularly climbing harder stuff.
The start can be a little vexing. Easier climbing gets you to the third bolt and then it's delicate face climbing for a few moves before easier terrain sets in. By delicate face climbing I man thin (but plentiful) holds and anonymous, small smears for the feet. I suppose there might be some beta that makes a 5.7 rating more reasonable, but in my opinion a 5.7 should be, by definition, fairly obvious after a few attempts.
The climber in search of 7-8 leads will probably want to head over to La Vaca Peligrosa (5.8) for a better grouping of moderates. While shorter and not as nice as Greenhorns, Slave (8) and R is for Redneck (7) are more accessible to the beginning leader and a good warm-up for the very nice La Vaca.
Jul 14, 2012
|I think it's the slab that gets you. Non-steep routes like this can be both technically and psychologically challenging for a beginning leader. The features thin out and a fall comes with the threat of hitting the rock. Still, this route felt like 5.7 slab to me. But it could get harder in the future as the features polish-up.|