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Green Valley Gap

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
12 Gauge Conversion TR 
2 Weeks Notice S 
Australian Monk T 
Bare Necessities S 
Beggars and Choosers S 
Benefit of the Doubt S 
Bitter Recriminations S 
Brazilian Ninjas T,TR 
Chinese Gauncho T 
Cool Katz S 
Damned If You Do TR 
Damned If You Don't TR 
Dueling Grandmas S 
Factional Infighting TR 
Fat Black Chuck S 
Flue Shot S 
Hair Today Gone Tomorrow S 
Hairy Virgin TR 
Hue and Cry S 
I'm hungry, I've got to poop! S 
Inquisition, The S 
Jezabel T 
Lincoln's Lament T 
Luck of the Irish S 
Moral Dilemma S,TR 
Nemesis S 
Not Arrgh S 
Pain in the Cass! S 
Perky's Playground S 
Presidential Centerfold T 
Presidential Warfare T 
Puppet Strings S 
Quickening, The S 
Redneck Wonderland S 
Rock!! n' Roll T 
Sand Stoner Reverse S 
Short and Dorky S 
Shotgun Baptism S 
Skin Graft S 
Stick to your Guns S 
Tape Up 
Washingtons' Wig T 
Wave, The S 
Where Egos Dare S 

Green Valley Gap  

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Location: 37.08852, -113.63779 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 29,633
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Jan 18, 2006
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87° | 55°
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A west/east trending kind of tight canyon. Typical sandstone routes, just short. It can be cool in the winter, but my guess is hot in the summer. Most routes are on the north face.

Getting There 

Take Sunset Blvd west of the airport mesa to Dixie Drive Road and turn left. Continue until you reach Canyon View Rd, and turn right. Continue until the pavement ends. Continue as far as your car will allow aiming for the narrow canyon almost directly west of the end of the pavement. Either park at the base of the canyon and hike in or drive up the side (rt) of the canyon and hide down or rap down.

Climbing Season

Weather station 2.9 miles from here

44 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',12],['2 Stars',19],['1 Star',12],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Green Valley Gap:
Lincoln's Lament   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 30'   
Perky's Playground   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Luck of the Irish   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 30'   
Hue and Cry   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 35'   
Puppet Strings   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 35'   
The Wave   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 30'   
Shotgun Baptism   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Sport, 30'   
Pain in the Cass!   5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 35'   
Benefit of the Doubt   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 40'   
The Inquisition   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13     Sport, 1 pitch, 35'   
Moral Dilemma   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 30'   
Skin Graft   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 35'   
Hair Today Gone Tomorrow   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 35'   
Sand Stoner Reverse   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 45'   
Stick to your Guns   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   
The Quickening   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 30'   
Short and Dorky   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 30'   
Browse More Classics in Green Valley Gap

Featured Route For Green Valley Gap
Kara topping out

Sand Stoner Reverse 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a  UT : Saint George : Green Valley Gap
A name such as this implies a few things.....for me, it says there is hope for Saint George yet.Bolted with the drill in reverse, Sand Stoner Reverse still holds its share of big whippers. Smooth and potent, this overhung scoop has some of the best climbing at the gap. Requiring thought, this route isn't as dumb as it sounds. A combination of finding proper body position and a need to milk the rests will keep the aspiring climber from getting too high...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of Green Valley Gap Slideshow Add Photo
Melissa climbing at the gap.
Melissa climbing at the gap.
The Gap
The Gap
Working my way up the chimney.
Working my way up the chimney.
Pretty fun 5.8 chimney, I don't know its name.
Pretty fun 5.8 chimney, I don't know its name.

Comments on Green Valley Gap Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Feb 11, 2014
By triznuty
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 11, 2006
This place has great rock. Fun little sandstone sport climbing area. I was how ever very disappointed in all the trash at this place. There's a washing machine down in the canyon, not to mention other crap. It was really horrible looking!! A lot of anchor bolts were cut and smashed...At least one in the pair would be...Whats up with that...?

Also don't bother using the old guide book for this area... It will just waste your time to try and figure out what is what...And we still don't know must of what we climbed... Just get on it if it looks good.

Also witnessed some bullsh*T at this area. I don't remember the name of the climb (I think it was an .11b...maybe called Moral Dilemma...That would be ironic), anyway some guy removed the first bolt/hanger because it was a spinner... It looked fine and I even clipped it myself (even though you would deck if you fell onto it, but I'm sure it would of held a fall)... But instead of tightening the damn bolt, he just stole the hanger. I wish I would of said something about that, but at the time I didn't think it was my business to say anything (couple of them were locals). I think this group was a bunch of idiots and next time I'll say something...

The guy who stole the hanger had to stick clip the next bolt......PUSSY!

St. G locals...Sorry for not standing up and saying something....
By Jen H
From: Holladay, Ut
Nov 4, 2006
Have to agree with the previous post. We spent 2 hours trying to figure out the climbs in the area and was highly disappointed. Bolts and anchors were missing. With all the other areas around St. George, this is one to skip.
By jtwalter
From: Orem, UT
Nov 6, 2007
I agree that this area isn't the best that St. George has to offer. However, there are some fun routes here in the .10 - easy .12 range, with the majority being top ropes or more moderate climbing. If you're a beginner climber or just starting leading this is a good area to frequent. The routes here are typically short, easy to toprope, while a few of them have missing bolts. This is a good winter crag.

It feels to me that the St. George locals abandoned this area as they found stellar climbing in other areas. Regardless, props to T. Goss and the rest of the St. George crew for their herculean effort in establishing so many lines around St. George.
By Kendall
From: Logan, UT
Apr 1, 2009
I love this area. I'm a local and fairly new to climbing regularly, but I think this will always be one of my favorite spots in St. G. My friends and I had a brand new copy of the guidebook and we found it quite useful, I've heard there have been many improvements on the section on this area from past editions. Anyways, great place to start out, many easy single-pitch climbs and a beautiful area.
By Jared R
Mar 1, 2010
The bolts that were once missing seem to have found their way back. This area is a really fun area. The routes are short but fun. There are lots of opportunities for short, fun trad climbing all along the cliff band. Most of which use gear anchors or sling boulders for top anchors. It is super fun. Bring your trad gear and have a great day of cragging 30' trad lines.
By Andrew W Smith
From: Salt Lake City, Ut
Mar 27, 2011
Just a shout-out to the University of Utah. a lot of the new bolts and chains that have been put up in the last 2-3 years were put up by the Climbing department from the U.
By KipHenrie
From: centerville, utah
Apr 5, 2011
Fabulous area if you want to knock off some great short climbs. The quality of rock is very nice. I recommend it. Sand Stoner Reverse is simply awesome!
By Hector
Aug 7, 2011
By Dan L
From: ZION
Dec 20, 2011
I left a gold Link Cam near "hair today gone tomorrow". If anyone finds it, please let me know.
By Wilson Hansen
Jan 17, 2012
Does anyone know who put the route to the left of stick to your guns up, the one straight up the slab? Rating? Thanks.
By ClimbingUte
Feb 11, 2014
Anyone know what the route name is for the bolted and chained chimney route between "Where Egos Dare" and "Hair Today Gone Tomorrow"?
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