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Green Sleeves 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 600'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Ed Webster and Henry Browning, 1987
Fixed Hardware: 1 Lead Bolt [details]
Page Views: 403
Submitted By: Guy H. on Nov 27, 2010

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  • Description 

    Green Sleeves is on Steve Levin's obscure tour and is well worth seeking out. The variation to The Green Spur is worth doing once, but is not the same quality as the regular route. The 5.10 finger crack on the crux pitch is amazing, though. Starting this route with Grandmother's Challenge or The Green Spur would be a great outing.

    P1/2: Follow The Green Spur up to the crux dihedral. Break out left and follow discontinuous cracks to the Red Ledge (5.9+, 195 feet).

    P3: Scramble along the ledge and around the corner to the left and belay on the ledge below the start of Green Slab Direct's 3rd pitch. Watch out for loose rock (5.3, 120 feet).

    P4: Angle left to the arete and follow face/cracks to the obvious old bolt. This 25 year old bolt (Star drive with Leeper hanger) protects the face moves to the right. Gain an amazing finger crack with great locks and a few tricky moves to the Green Slab Direct's belay stance (5.10c, 150 feet).

    P5: Pick an easy crack system to the top. There are two variations to choose from (5.6, 150 feet).


    Location 

    The start shares the first 120 feet of Green Spur.


    Protection 

    The crux pitch requires at least a double set of small cams and a set of RPs. Two #1 Camalots were also handy on this pitch.



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