Green Sleeves  5.10c PG13

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Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 600 feet Consensus:  5.10c [details] FA:  Ed Webster and Henry Browning, 1987 Fixed Hardware:  1 Lead Bolt [details] Submitted By:  Guy H. on Nov 27, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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2013 Raptor Nesting Closure in effect - NOW LIFTED MORE INFO >>> As of Feb. 1, 2013, a seasonal wildlife closure is in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyon’s falcons. The closure starts Feb. 1 through July 31, or until further notice and includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack. For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/press.asp?PressId=8152 From an Eldorado Canyon tweet, the Redgarden Wall closures were lifted May 6, 2013. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment Action Committee for Eldorado

Description 

Green Sleeves is on Steve Levin's obscure tour and is well worth seeking out. The variation to The Green Spur is worth doing once, but is not the same quality as the regular route. The 5.10 finger crack on the crux pitch is amazing, though. Starting this route with Grandmother's Challenge or The Green Spur would be a great outing.

P1/2: Follow The Green Spur up to the crux dihedral. Break out left and follow discontinuous cracks to the Red Ledge (5.9+, 195 feet).

P3: Scramble along the ledge and around the corner to the left and belay on the ledge below the start of Green Slab Direct's 3rd pitch. Watch out for loose rock (5.3, 120 feet).

P4: Angle left to the arete and follow face/cracks to the obvious old bolt. This 25 year old bolt (Star drive with Leeper hanger) protects the face moves to the right. Gain an amazing finger crack with great locks and a few tricky moves to the Green Slab Direct's belay stance (5.10c, 150 feet).

P5: Pick an easy crack system to the top. There are two variations to choose from (5.6, 150 feet).

Location 

The start shares the first 120 feet of Green Spur.

Protection 

The crux pitch requires at least a double set of small cams and a set of RPs. Two #1 Camalots were also handy on this pitch.