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Redgarden - Lumpe to the top
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Zot Face, The 

Green Slab-Original Route 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 6 pitches, 600', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Dave Dornan and partner, before 1960.
Fixed Hardware: 2 Belay Bolts [details]
Season: Dry conditions
Page Views: 634
Submitted By: Rodger Raubach on Jan 2, 2012
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Nick Patton on the first pitch of Green Slab.
  • Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>
  • Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Follow the description already given for the Green Slab Direct for the first 2 pitches. The small roof on P1 is surmounted via a thin crack near its right edge. If one doesn't surmount the roof from the right side, it's much more difficult. If one continues left a few feet from this roof, it's possible to climb an unprotected slab to the same final belay ledge, but this is 5.9. It is then possible to follow a distinct ledge to the prominent arete on the left. The next 2-3 leads (depending on rope length) follow the arete on very moderate climbing to the top of the wall. There are several lines possible, but the climbing is never more than 5.7 with good protection.

    The descent is accomplished by following the ridge line North until some steep and dirty gullies lead back down to the scree.


    Location 

    Use the same start as Green Slab Direct.


    Protection 

    A standard Eldorado rack is adequate, and the emphasis is on small to medium wired stoppers.



    Photos of Green Slab-Original Route Slideshow Add Photo
    Liz takes on the very nice roof variation. <br /> <br />Photo by Nick Patton.
    Liz takes on the very nice roof variation.

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