Green Slab-Original Route  5.8

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Type:  Trad, 6 pitches, 600 feet, Grade II Consensus:  5.8 [details] FA:  Dave Dornan and partner, before 1960. Fixed Hardware:  2 Belay Bolts [details] Season:  Dry conditions Submitted By:  Rodger Raubach on Jan 2, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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2013 Raptor Nesting Closure in effect - NOW LIFTED MORE INFO >>> As of Feb. 1, 2013, a seasonal wildlife closure is in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyon’s falcons. The closure starts Feb. 1 through July 31, or until further notice and includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack. For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/press.asp?PressId=8152 From an Eldorado Canyon tweet, the Redgarden Wall closures were lifted May 6, 2013. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment Action Committee for Eldorado

Description 

Follow the description already given for the Green Slab Direct for the first 2 pitches. The small roof on P1 is surmounted via a thin crack near its right edge. If one doesn't surmount the roof from the right side, it's much more difficult. If one continues left a few feet from this roof, it's possible to climb an unprotected slab to the same final belay ledge, but this is 5.9. It is then possible to follow a distinct ledge to the prominent arete on the left. The next 2-3 leads (depending on rope length) follow the arete on very moderate climbing to the top of the wall. There are several lines possible, but the climbing is never more than 5.7 with good protection.

The descent is accomplished by following the ridge line North until some steep and dirty gullies lead back down to the scree.

Location 

Use the same start as Green Slab Direct.

Protection 

A standard Eldorado rack is adequate, and the emphasis is on small to medium wired stoppers.