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Mike on "Crisco Way", a fun variation to...
Green Savior was supposedly named for a small tree that saved Tom Taber's bacon when he took a whipper off the route during the FA. The "savior" is gone now, but the route is a classic!
You start over in the mid-section of the mountain, below a big chimney system (see pics) that identifies the fourth pitch of the route.
P1) Climb a brushy corner system on the left side of a buttress to a belay just short of a "window" through the rock. Move the belay to the other side of the "window" to start the second pitch.
P2) Climb up corners to a really nice 5.5 crescent shaped crack that leads up to Comfort Ledge, a big sloping ledge system below the routes offwidth crux pitch.
P3) The business! Get into the slot and chimney up to the offwidth in the bulge. What makes this only 5.8 is all the great handholds here and there that get you through the wide without having to resort to classic offwidth techniques. Once above the slot, continue up to a small stance above (15 feet or so) and belay.
P4) The big chimney above. Some awkward climbing puts you in the oblique chimney. Pro goes in the back. Continue in this until you exit the chimney and then follow corners above to the top. Getting to the actual top of the rock has always seemed rather difficult to me, but pick the easiest line.
Standard Rack up to #4 Camalot. If you want a little extra, you can bring a #4.5 Camalot, but no need to bring the #5.
BETA PHOTO: The view right after the "window". The d...
Oct 25, 2012
Belaying just post the "window" a 70m took this all the way to nice belay ledge just below the top.
By J tot
From: Tempe, AZ
Nov 3, 2013
This felt harder than anything on Candyland.
From: Phoenix, AZ
Dec 9, 2015
If you don't like unprotected chimney (like me), then heed Bill Cramer's advice and bring the wide gear! We were very happy to have both the #4 and the #6 (got walked delightfully up one of the chimney sections and used appreciatively elsewhere). Now I understand why people wear knee pads! A great route and the Crisco variation is a good way to go. I imagine the "hardness" factor depends on how comfortable/good you are with off width and chimney. Was just what we expected with the Cramer guide and the Rock Climbing AZ book description. Would do this route again!