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This route is not listed in Richard Rossiter's "Rock Climbing the Flatirons," [but someone provided a name & FA]. However, both my partner and I felt that it was hard, but short, 5.11.
The climb is located on the right wall of an obvious cleft/chimney that is a ways downhill (south) from the Velvet Elvis area. Richard Rossiter marks this as a "tunnel" on one of his topos for the Ironing Boards area.
It is easy to stem up this route using the opposite wall for three of the four clips, but no doubt the route is meant to be done without the aid of the other wall. Either way, however, the crux comes immediately after the third bolt, so you can't "cheat" through that. The climbing is mostly hard moves on small but positive holds up a gradually overhanging face.
Four bolts to a two-bolt anchor.
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Aug 18, 2003
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a
Decent route, not entirely positive- one of those routes for which you wish you'd tried if 'fresh'.
One star only because it is too short to be really good, though what was there was OK.
Maybe I was just tired and beat up, but it felt harder than most of the 11s and a few of the 12s I've done lately. That said, my partner and I had been discussing if we were too tierd to get on anything else just before this route and may be overstating its difficulty.
Anchor up top needs new webbing. I was out again, sorry.
|By Craig Miller|
Nov 29, 2008
I believe the FA was by Larry Harris and possibly Tony Karzen, and Ken, circa 1987.
|By Larry Harris|
Aug 28, 2011
I think Curt Fry put this one up, but not sure.
|By tony karzen|
Apr 16, 2012
Larry got FA with Kent right after. As I remember it I got first RP though... correct me if I'm wrong on that, Larry... unless that was another route I'm thinking of....