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Green Pond, NJ
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By jia
Jun 1, 2014
indeed the talus proper lacks problems in the middle. check out the talus crevice, the eastern flank, up around and below the bowling alley. yep landings generally are death eating. there is along the base of the talus on the eastern shelf a slew of area w/ boulder problems. problem w/ de problems is cleaning them. look for the big old huge overhang. check out the big ole house size boulder along the talus slope woodland buffer. landings are marginally better. now if you get up onto the 3 bears downclimb and goldline ledge keep a sharp eye for problems and the tunnel.
green pond overhang
green pond overhang

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By Dylan Randall
From Paul Smiths, NY
Jun 1, 2014
Ian's Favorite Problem
I appreciate your beta on the area, but these names all sound foreign to me!

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By Michael Schneider
Jun 1, 2014
I'm here the stuff I did is there Jia, de Freerider and I love this place DO NOT SCREW THIS PLACE UP
Climb Smart and safe ie pre inspect tred carefully & top rope( w/ dirtectionals away from loose stacks)
The bouldering is best around the Man eating talus no landings at all !

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By jia
Jun 1, 2014
there is no guide to the site. basic overlay. east side of talus has a 4th class route to the top of the cliff. for specific bouldering look for large boulders along the base and side of the talus. "jenga" is mid-point of cliff and is the prominate arete. bowling alley is the section of the cliff that is highest. believe its the scar of a old cliff slide. gp, hawks cliff talus can be unforgiving. thar be a few different sweet spots along her borders. photo of far east boulder. easily accessible from the hiking trail when the foliage isn't so thick. photo taken from near the eastern edge of the talus looking down into the talus slope woodland. there are other such boulders of the same size along the border. top of talus field crevice is a big old square boulder. significant size. blow a move your talus trash.
inspect the far east
inspect the far east

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By Michael Schneider
Aug 10, 2014
WHATS UP?
any one sending the routes?
Blue Gus Chimney?
Photo Op. Wall?
K.B.S.( Kevin Bein's Shoes) (the big roof)


michaeljschneider.wix.com/tris...

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By Michael C
From New Jersey
Aug 11, 2014
Mt Minsi, PA
Some great info on your page Mike.

Looking to head on out there in the fall. Let me know if you'd like to partner up.

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By Michael Schneider
Oct 4, 2014
F.Y.I.
F.Y.I.
michaeljschneider.wix.com/tris...

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By Norm3
From North Jersey
Oct 21, 2014
Anyone been there this summer/fall?

Also Michael, do you know if there is ice in the winter?

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By Michael C
From New Jersey
Oct 21, 2014
Mt Minsi, PA
The guy who I spoke to (mentioned earlier in this thread) said it's best to climb there in the fall. Way too buggy, vegatated, and full of active critters in the warm months.

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By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
Oct 21, 2014
Stoked...
Anyone got any good pics from the base?

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By Michael Schneider
Oct 23, 2014
year round climbing
the yellow jackets were bad mid summer
The last three weeks were sweet!
I saw very little chalk or evidence of other climbing where I went.

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By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
Oct 23, 2014
Stoked...
Michael Schneider wrote:
year round climbing the yellow jackets were bad mid summer The last three weeks were sweet! I saw very little chalk or evidence of other climbing where I went.


Did you bring your AMGA guide? lol

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By Ryan L
From Ringwood NJ
Oct 26, 2014
Me skiing
Paid the place a visit today. Didn't climb anything, but explored a bunch of the talus field and cliff directly in front of the road as seen here in the first picture. I went as far right as the Blue Gus Chimney and the ledge/dihedral to the right of itbut for the most part I kept to the left side because in Michael's website he states it has most of the more memorable and unique features. There were no signs of climbers except for what looked like some pin scars. However, I didn't see any of the right side of things so there may be more evidence there.

There seems to be very little bouldering if any on the left side. Sounds like from Jia there is more on the right side near four birds so I will have to check that out soon.

I got to the cliff by cutting between two houses at the end of Deerhaven Lane and scrambling up the talus field. Did not end well... Was greeted on my way out by two very unhappy homeowners, informing me a detective lives in one of the neighboring houses and that they call the police if there are any unusual cars or people around the road, including climbers. Just don't play around in the talus field above that road or go on it and you will be fine. They cannot see past the edge of the talus field at the top so if you are a the cliff you are fine.

Apart from that, this place looks fantastic! Looks like there would be tons of placements if led. The rock in the talus field is different from the actual cliff (sandstone vs something grey with crystals and stuff in it) which seems really weird. Some parts look very blocky, loose, and in need of some good trundling, but they also look totally worth it. I would definitely NOT want to belay directly under a climber!

Got bitten up by mosquitos when I reached the bottom of the cliff because I was a sweaty mess from the climb up, but once I cooled off they went away. I have done a lot in West Milford, and know from experience that it gets hot and very buggy in the summer but fall chills and lower temperatures seem to drive most insects somewhere else.

Blue Gus Chimney looks really unique and awesome! Way too wide to chimney up, but has a really awesome roof at the top and a ton of cracks and fun stuff. Apart from that, there's a ton of dihedrals, roofs, and other really cool features littered all over the rest of cliff. The possibilities seem endless..



Next time I come I plan on taking the four birds trail (from the Northeastern trail head) and rappelling down Blue Gus Chimney and climbing, or something on the right side it. Will be hopeful I don't run into any problems from there on..

As for the only AMGA access, I don't see anything else stopping one from climbing here apart from the people on Deerhaven Ln. Just don't make a big deal or call attention to yourself.

Apologies for the crummy iPhone fisheye pictures. I would usually never shoot on that, but today I only had my 70-300mm telephoto lens for my camera.


Map
Map


Side of Blue Gus Chimney
Side of Blue Gus Chimney


Talus Field
Talus Field


Just to get an idea of the rock
Just to get an idea of the rock


GP rock
GP rock


view from the top!
view from the top!


Blue Gus Chimney!
Blue Gus Chimney!


Top of Blue Gus Chimney
Top of Blue Gus Chimney


even more GP rock
even more GP rock


I believe this is "Goldline Ledge", wher...
I believe this is "Goldline Ledge", where Michael J Schneider kept a stash of climbing gear back in the day. There was a 45~ foot drop below me. I got to it by just following the cliff next to Blue Gus Chimney even though it significantly dropped of.


View from the top of the Talus field. Wow!
View from the top of the Talus field. Wow!


really big talus
really big talus


Lots o' rock
Lots o' rock


even more rock
even more rock


Very attractive corner of Blue Gus Chimney.
Very attractive corner of Blue Gus Chimney.


Pin scars? about 15~ feet above me
Pin scars? about 15~ feet above me


Four Birds trail head info station. Can be found a...
Four Birds trail head info station. Can be found about 100 feet up the East trail head.

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By Norm3
From North Jersey
Oct 26, 2014
Great pictures Ryan and thanks for the in depth review. Glad you didn't get in any trouble with the home owners. Hopefully we can get some work done with the AF (if the ball isn't already rolling) and provide access for a cool looking cliff in NJ!

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By jia
Oct 26, 2014
ya mon, green pond be the highlands climbin at its best. drop me an private e-mail. ingvarja@verizon.net

there is way better access away from deerhaven lane. AF...well that can be worked and some of your photos would be along those lines to help.

john anderson

ps: yar, stay away from de houses. there be better acxs away from them houses...

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By Michael Schneider
Oct 26, 2014
Yes!!!!!!
Thank you
Great Pics
Fisheye lens
That shows the steep, nice!!
Take care have fun

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By jia
Oct 27, 2014
check out the approach via october hill road. you will arrive on top of the main cliff on top of "bowling alley". requires a 2 pitch rapell descent. or head west along cliff top. look for the small cairn. climbing trail cuts in to the left. expect some heavy bushwaking to reach the cliff. i can send along a map. AF well the local political guy is expressing interest. that should be leverged. jia

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By jia
Oct 27, 2014
hang
hang


cliff green pond
cliff green pond


map
map


if enough people approach morris county and the state then i think access can be enhanced. anyway up for pushing the issue. john anderson

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By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
Oct 27, 2014
Stoked...
Looks very gunks like... thnx for posting all the images. I don't know why you NJ climbing folks even need to leave the state now!

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By Michael C
From New Jersey
Oct 27, 2014
Mt Minsi, PA
jia wrote:
check out the approach via october hill road. you will arrive on top of the main cliff on top of "bowling alley". requires a 2 pitch rapell descent. or head west along cliff top. look for the small cairn. climbing trail cuts in to the left. expect some heavy bushwaking to reach the cliff. i can send along a map. AF well the local political guy is expressing interest. that should be leverged. jia


@jia - John, I'm Michael. Andrew S's friend. Haven't spoke to him in a while but I was the one who contacted you guys last year when I saw the article in Climberism.

@Ryan L - awesome job scouting and providing the info on where NOT to go.

Like many places in Jersey where climbing is questionable, going in ninja style and keeping a low profile, far from the eyes and ears of the authortities who would shut us down, is the way to proceed.

@Norm - message me about the Access Fund. I can put you in the loop with Andrew S. who did most of the behind-the-scenes work with Morris County to get the climbing survery accomplished.

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