Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Green Monster Slab
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Erase Your Face T 
Green Dihedral T,TR 
Green Jello S 
Green Monster T,TR 
Green Monster Aid Crack T,TR 
Pure Thoughts S 

Green Monster 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 6,976
Submitted By: Lee Jensen on Nov 14, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (90)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Racing the sunset

Description 

A must do route for Rock Canyon. Easy approach, sustained difficulty, and good rock all make for an enjoyable climb.

Green Monster is the obvious larger crack up the right side of the slab.

The crack is filled with tasty holds if you prefer to venture in, or if you don't like you put your arm in the mouth of the monster, you can smear the slab and lie back the cracks lip.


Protection 

Camalots 1 through 4, mostly size 2. We placed 9 pieces. Secure, two-bolt chains at the top.

Three #2, two #3, two #4, and a handful of smaller sized gear to supplement. You could also use large (hand size) hexes to easily protect the last 20 feet. Save the #3s and #4s for once the crack starts trending left.



Photos of Green Monster Slideshow Add Photo
What a beautiful line, and an equally thrilling lead. Mooner making a very cold ascent.
What a beautiful line, and an equally thrilling le...
Peter Coe on Green Monster
Peter Coe on Green Monster
Major routes on the Green Monster
BETA PHOTO: Major routes on the Green Monster
Showing the approach to Green Monster looking due South
BETA PHOTO: Showing the approach to Green Monster looking due ...
Why have three points of contact when you can balance on two?
Why have three points of contact when you can bala...
Andrew Stireman in the shade
Andrew Stireman in the shade
Glen Kaplan taking lessons from the FREAK monster!
Glen Kaplan taking lessons from the FREAK monster!
Halfway up the monster
Halfway up the monster
Jan on lead just at the crux of the route.
Jan on lead just at the crux of the route.
Rappelling after TR setup
Rappelling after TR setup
Comments on Green Monster Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 17, 2014
By Lee Jensen
Nov 15, 2004

If you want to top rope Green Monster then follow the gully up past Tinker Toys and scramble up the rocks to the top of the Green Monster slab.

By Jason Billings
From: Draper, UT
Jul 17, 2005
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This is a great climb, a not to be missed in the canyon. The crack is consistent offer great jams. Rappel anchors have be added at the bottom of Dihedral, so you can rappel instead of downclimbing the 5.4 scramble approach.

By Chuck
From: Columbus, GA
Apr 24, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I climbed it with a double set of hexes. I wish I had a few larger pieces. The route is great.

By Bad Sock Puppet
Jun 22, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Awesome climb; Solid 5.9. Crack is extremely solid with fist jams most the way up and some good lie-back near the top. Used mostly Camelot #2 and #3 saving your bigger gear for the top. Used hexes on the lower stuff. Placement of chains allows for easy top-rope. A few runners around the middle will help reduce drag. A must do for those who like to hit up the cracks.

By Skyler Penrod
Oct 25, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Finally bagged this one. I used a 2.5F(Friend),2F,3F,3.5F,#6 Nut,4F,4F,4BD,3.5F. The top was a little run out but not bad. A must do trad line in the canyon.

By tenesmus
Oct 25, 2008

This is the Goodro's of Rock Canyon only probably a better pure crack line. How many people have learned to climb on this chunk of rock?

By Mark Goodro
From: Bainbridge Island, WA
Jun 12, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

While the comparison of quality is pretty fair, this is a comfortable slab compared to the slight overhang of Goodro's Wall. I used Powercam #6-8 and BD C4 #1-2 in the first half, leap-frogged a couple #3 C4s for a while, slid a #4 for a bit, then finally ran out the last 20 feet on a couple marginal TCUs. I second the recommendation of two #3 and two #4 C4s. A third #3 wouldn't hurt.

By Nich Cloward
From: American Fork
Jul 22, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I've only ever top roped this climb, but I've climbed this route more than anything else. I love this climb. It's a great, long crack letting you lean on it, or jamb into the crack. It's much funner to lean though. Fun hike approach with a rappel to start, if you like to go that way (I do), and a rappel out. Classic, and a favorite.

By Tristan Higbee
From: Thailand
Aug 13, 2009

I don't know how many hundreds of climbs I've done in Rock Canyon, but I actually hadn't led this one until this morning. I toproped it probably 5 or 6 years ago and remember thinking "Man, this is hard!" I laybacked up the whole thing. Well, 5 or 6 years (and lots of jamming experience) later, this thing is freaking SWEET! It gets my vote for the single best trad line in the canyon. I placed 7 pieces from #1 Camalot to #4 Camalot. Super classic.

By Christopher Miller
Aug 23, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I did this climb yesterday as my first real trad line! i had a blast, the crack is no joke, it will eat your whole arm up!

By Nich Cloward
From: American Fork
Sep 3, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

One day I'll do it on trad gear. Until then this is still my favorite climb, even though I only top rope it. Maybe, Tristan, this would be a good one for me to learn trad on because I'm so familiar with it.

By Nic Hoggan
From: Provo, Ut
Feb 10, 2010

If you're going to top rope this route and want to gain the top via the gully in front of Tinker Toys, MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT KNOCK DOWN ROCKS on the folks climbing there. The easiest way to do this is to stay to the left and hug the wall--there seems to be less loose stuff there.

By Nich Cloward
From: American Fork
Oct 1, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I love this climb

By BJB
From: Austin, TX
May 22, 2012

Finally went back and led this. Not having a lot of big gear, we really had to run this bad boy out, so I won't bother to write our ridiculous gear list (I think we placed 5 pieces).

By Josh Allred
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 1, 2013
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Tried this on lead for the first time today. Ran it out and took a 30 ft whipper. IMO one of the best routes in RC.

Not as hard as Bushwhack Crack or Satan's Corner in LCC. Did not feel like there were any 5.9 moves on it but was very sustained 5.8.

5.8+ anyone?

By Landon McBrayer
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 18, 2013

If you, like most climbers now, don't carry a full set of hexes, you'll probably want doubles 1-4 camalot. It can be done with a singe #4 if you walk it up the first long section of 4 size, place a good #3, and leapfrog the #4 to the upper section of 4 size. Cool easier cups/fists crack. 5.8.

By Eric Hardester
From: Provo, Utah
Apr 17, 2014

Top roped this by scrambling up around the back of Tinkertoys. There is an anchor next to the route anchors to clip a sling or daisy chain into while you setup the TR anchor. Super fun! Will do again.