Left of Scene of the Crime and Juicy Fingers there is a very inviting finger crack on a blank face. Climb a few moves in the crack (2 bolts) and mantel onto an easy rest ledge, then climb a blunt arete past three more well placed bolts until it is easy to scramble to the anchors at the top. It seems like the anchors are placed 3 or 4 feet higher than necessary, however this is to access a second pitch or the route Panama Hat (5.9 but I have not been on it and will not try to give any details about it.) This is a fun route to warm up, end the day, or tick another 5.9 when you are in the area.
Left of and perpendicular to Scene of the Crime
5 bolts, the first one may be reached from the ground (I'm only 5'10")
By lee hansche Administrator From: goffstown, nh Aug 18, 2007
hey brian, i looked on RC.com cause they have kept pretty well up to date on the new routes and retros at rumney... that site has juicy fingers still protected by trad gear and a pin but they do list a new bolted route to the left, The Green Mile 5.9, which would make sense if you thought it wasnt quite 5.10a... what we need is photos and maps, they are oh so helpful... hope this helps... peace out...
It is possible to lead this with gear, but I would only recommend it if you are comfortable with a long fall potential. I was able to get a nice red c4 in the crack just after the large ledge. The gear is good but there isn't a lot of it.
Does anyone have any info on the upper pitches above this route? Panama Hat or if there are any others? It looks like a cool section of rock.
By M Sprague Administrator From: New England Sep 28, 2009
Yes, Panama Hat goes at around 5.9 and is the left climb off the ledge. Beta: once you reach the roof traverse pretty far left before going up then angling back right and up to the anchors. The best approach to PH is up The Anchovy Caper and on to the ledge where you will find a 2 bolt anchor. With a 70 m rope and good use of slings you can do this and lower as 1 long pitch.
The next route to the right is Chris Smith's route Flying Squirrel. It goes up at the big corner and out rt onto the arete, ending at the anchors of Panama Hat. I think he said it was an easy or mid 11. Again, approach from Anchovy, or perhaps The Green Mile.
The next one over right is Tim Kemple Sr's fun 11c that goes through a couple roofs, best approached from Scene of the Crime. Just continue up onto the ledge where you will find a 2 bolt anchor. Give your self some slack when belaying here so you can move around and see the climber. Edit: Panama Hat ended up going into the new book as Mister Meaner, just to clear up any confusion
The grade of 5.9 can be very fickle at Rumney... I have climbed ones that feel like 5.8, and I have climbed ones that feel like 5.10c. This one is certainly much closer to 5.9 than a lot of other Rumney 9's. When I was trying to break in to 9's at Rumney I found it very difficult. This climb (and Yoda as well) is an excellent first 5.9 lead. That said, I really enjoyed this climb, and I am going to certainly recommend it. The face moves are really cool and it's a different kind of slab climb than the Meadows, or even the slab sections of other climbs around this one. However, I'm not sure how someone shorter than me can reach the first bolt from the ground. I am just shy of 6 feet tall and I was about a foot short of reaching the bolt.
By Eric Chabot From: Thetford Ctr, VT Sep 6, 2013 rating: 5.95c17VIHVS 5a
Fun route... challenging when wet. I found myself skipping the first bolt by climbing up right of it and clipping the second but if this climb is pushing it for you then maybe stick clip. Or maybe this bolt is easy to reach when it's dry.