Green Mile Direct V9
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Green Mile Boulder with variations
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Description Brilliant! Packs a punch all the way to the end. Start on the right side of a crack and slap through the roof, heading right with big spans and lots of tension (the left side of the crack is off.) Match the decent edges over the lip, then head back left, crimping hard out the rail to reach a rounded jug. Nope, you're not done yet. Pull tenuously through sloping edges in the upper bulge until standing on the round jug. Walk it out (carefully - the hillside above is steep and slippery.)
(As noted in the comments, this problem may be climbed more directly and with less difficulty, using left hand slopers just right of the crack. I admit this way makes more sense, but I don't think it's as fun. Do what makes you happy.)
Alternately, from the far right side of the roof, do the somewhat easier finish straight up from the matched edges, following the crack feature instead of cutting back left ("The Green Mile"), or start low at the right corner of the feature and do a couple hard moves or a tricky dyno to reach a good sloper and join either finish.
Location Down the canyon between the Trailer Park and Dope Lounge areas, on the right side, look for the radical chalk-covered feature.
Protection Pads (a few are sure nice) and spotters
| Comments on Green Mile Direct |
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By Matt Fowls
Jul 17, 2010
rating: V10
| this is one of the best boulder problems that i've ever seen!
highly recommended... very difficult, and requires a lot of figuring (and falling) if it is near your limit.
maybe it's because i did it in the summer--and on a humid day at that--but i feel more inclined to call this one v10.. but what do i know! i'll be interested to see how it feels on a crisp, dry, and cool fall day! |
By Colin Cox
Sep 2, 2010
| This problem is rad, but was better before the crimp broke down in the start. I'm just bitter cuz I got the F.A. and now I can't do it. |
By Pat Mac
From: Tempe
Jun 6, 2011
rating: V9-10 PG13
| Sent Last Sunday. First double digit! Found some good beta for us smaller guys, made it possible for me. Nice route though! Beautiful line! And it gets shade all day so the rock is nice and cool for a burn! |
By Pat Mac
From: Tempe
Jun 8, 2011
rating: V9-10 PG13
| This is my beta for this thing. Amazing problem.
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By m.qaden.everett
Jun 25, 2011
rating: V8+
| eliminate = automatically disqualified as 'one of the best' of az. still very fun tho. |
By Red
From: Arizona
Jul 8, 2011
rating: V6-7
| I think if this problem is done the way it is described here, you may be using some tunnel vision. There is defiantly other beta for this problem. There is an obvious left hand hold that allows you to stay squared up with the line. Your left hand never needs to touch a hold on the right side. Still not using the rock to the left of the crack either.
Really fun compression bouldering! |
By Pat Mac
From: Tempe
Jul 27, 2011
rating: V9-10 PG13
| I heard that the right hand crimp broke off? Is this true? |
By mmellott
Oct 23, 2011
| What's the grade of the original Green Mile? |
By Colin Cox
Nov 8, 2011
| In 2000 it was about v6. |
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